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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>One alternative to roller furling is to lead the
Jib/Genoa halyard to the cockpit. If done properly, you can easily raise and
lower your headsail and sail the boat single-handed. The advantage is that you
do not sacrifice sail shape. When the weather forecasts were for building wind
conditions, we would start the day with the #2 and, as the wind built, we would
reef the main. The A30 sails terrific with a #2 and a reefed main. The
disadvantage is, of course, you have to go to the bow for headsail changes. To
lower the sail put the boat head-to-wind, as the headsail begins to backwind,
let the halyard go, the headsail falls neatly on the foredeck. This takes some
practice in different conditions, but it is a very effective way to manage the
headsail. This was so effective, that I hesitated for many years to consider
roller furling.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>Mike Lehman<BR>840 Mill Creek Road<BR>Arnold, MD 21012<BR>(410) 544-9067
(Home)<BR>(443) 253-7054 (Mobile)</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:sail_505@hotmail.com">sail_505@hotmail.com</A><BR></DIV>
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style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=timmins@optonline.net href="mailto:timmins@optonline.net">Brian and
Elaine Timmins</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=public-list@alberg30.org
href="mailto:public-list@alberg30.org">Post to Publiclist</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, February 22, 2001 5:29
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [Alberg30] Roller Furling and
Props</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Roller Furling / Reefing</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>My A30 is the first boat I've had that has Roller Furling. I
have what most people consider not a great system. It's an older Hood Line
Drive system that uses a continuous loop of line that goes through a furling
drum that resembles a self tailing winch top. Although this system has a few
drawbacks, (I'll discuss them seperately if anybody really wants to know), I
highly recommend adding roller furling / reefing. It just makes going out
sailing that much easier and more convenient. It takes away the excuse that
it's too much work or I'm too tired after work or whatever your own favorite
excuse is. You can have your present jibs and genoas modified by almost any
sailmaker or if your so inclined, Sailrite and others sell what you need to do
it yourself. You should add a sacrificial UV Blocker band to the foot and
leach of any sail you'll leave on the furler to protect the sailcloth. In my
area, I find it most appropriate to have a 135% bent on. It has the widest
range of usage for my local wind conditions. Don't think that one all purpose
sail will go from drifting to storm conditions. The most you should plan on is
the ability to reef 10 - 20 %. If you go past that, the sail shape
deteriorates Quickly. It can be done but as you go smaller, the sail gets
baggier instead of flatter which is what you really want as the wind picks up.
If you get a new, purpose built sail, it should have a foam (or other style,
thick) luff pad to help flatten the sail as you reef. Most sailmakers also
will give you reference marks and reinforced patches at the suggested reef
points. I actually have a 170%, my favorite 135%, and a working jib (100%??)
set up to use. Only the 135% has the UV strips. In 5 years of use, the 135% is
up 95%, the working jib 4%, and the 170% 1% (approximate guess). If your a
high tech racer, there are some systems that let you remove the drum easily
and use the airfoil shape extrusion alone. In my opinion, This is overkill,
but it does let you remove the drum for maintenance.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>There is one drawback to roller furling/reefing. On longer
passages where the wind can pick up on you, if you reef down and then find you
want to change down, you have to let the whole sail out to lower it. In other
words, after you think the wind is too strong for the full sail and the wind
is getting worse, to go smaller, you have to deal with more sail than you want
in those wind conditions. There are other potential problems, but they're
minor (in my opinion)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Go for it, You'll love it (after you get used to it). Buy
the best you can afford. The Profurl units in the group purchase are great. I
know several people that have them, and the group prices seem
good.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Props</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I have an A4 in my boat. It had the standard 2 blade 13X7
which kept the engine RPM max too low. I changed to the Cruising Design Atomic
4 Prop (7/8 shaft). It's OK, not as great as I originally thought after
installing it. It does let the engine run up to a better max RPM (for engine
health), but it's not as great in reverse as they say. Believe me on this. I'm
still tending to an ankle/calf injury I got last May that was ultimately
caused by my own stubborn stupidity when I couldn't back out of my slip due to
high winds. The Prop also doesn't react well to things like a plastic bag
getting caught on a blade, but no prop does. All I can say is this prop works
but it's not the end all, be all of props for the A4 in an A30.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Regards,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Brian Free
Spirit
#497</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>