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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I used a #10 Barient but they're out of business.
Right now, I am helping Tony Fortnam with this same project on his boat and he
purchased Lewmar #8's. On my boat I used cheek blocks mounted to the base of the
mast, about 8-10" up so to get a good lead to the deck organizer then back to
the winch. The cheek blocks are mounted on teak blocks that I made to the curve
of the mast. It's important to have a fair lead in all directions. You do not
want the halyard to contact the cheeks of the blocks due to friction
and chafe. On Tony's boat we plan to use a either 1. a block shackled on
the bail at the base of mast or 2. a standup block with a spring mounted to the
deck (ref: Schaefer 506-62) or 3. a hinged halyard block mounted to the mast
(ref: Schaefer 506-32). Then to a fair lead, then to the lewmar #8 winch. The
Jib halyard will be led down the port side and the spinnaker halyard, pole lift
and foreguy down the starboard side. The winches are mounted on teak mount
blocks which have been angle cut to keep the winches as close to level as
possible to prevent overrides (I haven't quite figured out how to cut these
round blocks of wood at an angle yet). The old jib halyard winch that is mounted
on the mast will be moved to the starboard side to help when reefing. I'll take
pictures when it's done and post them, if George will let me.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>Mike Lehman<BR>840 Mill Creek Road<BR>Arnold, MD 21012<BR>(410) 544-9067
(Home)<BR>(443) 253-7054 (Mobile)</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:sail_505@hotmail.com">sail_505@hotmail.com</A><BR></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=bydel@bellsouth.net href="mailto:bydel@bellsouth.net">Wilhelm
Ydel</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=public-list@alberg30.org
href="mailto:public-list@alberg30.org">public-list@alberg30.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 23, 2001 8:42
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Alberg30] Roller Furling
and Props</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Mike</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>could you discribe exactly how you rigged the
halyard to lead to the cockpit. What size winch did you use.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Bill Ydel</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>#441</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=sail_505@hotmail.com href="mailto:sail_505@hotmail.com">Mike
Lehman</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=public-list@alberg30.org
href="mailto:public-list@alberg30.org">public-list@alberg30.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 23, 2001 7:31
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Alberg30] Roller Furling
and Props</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>One alternative to roller furling is to lead
the Jib/Genoa halyard to the cockpit. If done properly, you can easily raise
and lower your headsail and sail the boat single-handed. The advantage is
that you do not sacrifice sail shape. When the weather forecasts were for
building wind conditions, we would start the day with the #2 and, as the
wind built, we would reef the main. The A30 sails terrific with a #2 and a
reefed main. The disadvantage is, of course, you have to go to the bow for
headsail changes. To lower the sail put the boat head-to-wind, as the
headsail begins to backwind, let the halyard go, the headsail falls neatly
on the foredeck. This takes some practice in different conditions, but it is
a very effective way to manage the headsail. This was so effective, that I
hesitated for many years to consider roller furling.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>Mike Lehman<BR>840 Mill Creek Road<BR>Arnold, MD 21012<BR>(410)
544-9067 (Home)<BR>(443) 253-7054 (Mobile)</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><A
href="mailto:sail_505@hotmail.com">sail_505@hotmail.com</A><BR></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=timmins@optonline.net href="mailto:timmins@optonline.net">Brian
and Elaine Timmins</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=public-list@alberg30.org
href="mailto:public-list@alberg30.org">Post to Publiclist</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, February 22, 2001
5:29 AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [Alberg30] Roller Furling
and Props</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Roller Furling / Reefing</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>My A30 is the first boat I've had that has Roller
Furling. I have what most people consider not a great system. It's an
older Hood Line Drive system that uses a continuous loop of line that goes
through a furling drum that resembles a self tailing winch top. Although
this system has a few drawbacks, (I'll discuss them seperately if anybody
really wants to know), I highly recommend adding roller furling / reefing.
It just makes going out sailing that much easier and more convenient. It
takes away the excuse that it's too much work or I'm too tired after work
or whatever your own favorite excuse is. You can have your present jibs
and genoas modified by almost any sailmaker or if your so inclined,
Sailrite and others sell what you need to do it yourself. You should add a
sacrificial UV Blocker band to the foot and leach of any sail you'll leave
on the furler to protect the sailcloth. In my area, I find it most
appropriate to have a 135% bent on. It has the widest range of usage for
my local wind conditions. Don't think that one all purpose sail will go
from drifting to storm conditions. The most you should plan on is the
ability to reef 10 - 20 %. If you go past that, the sail shape
deteriorates Quickly. It can be done but as you go smaller, the sail gets
baggier instead of flatter which is what you really want as the wind picks
up. If you get a new, purpose built sail, it should have a foam (or other
style, thick) luff pad to help flatten the sail as you reef. Most
sailmakers also will give you reference marks and reinforced patches at
the suggested reef points. I actually have a 170%, my favorite 135%, and a
working jib (100%??) set up to use. Only the 135% has the UV strips. In 5
years of use, the 135% is up 95%, the working jib 4%, and the 170% 1%
(approximate guess). If your a high tech racer, there are some systems
that let you remove the drum easily and use the airfoil shape extrusion
alone. In my opinion, This is overkill, but it does let you remove the
drum for maintenance.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>There is one drawback to roller furling/reefing. On
longer passages where the wind can pick up on you, if you reef down and
then find you want to change down, you have to let the whole sail out to
lower it. In other words, after you think the wind is too strong for the
full sail and the wind is getting worse, to go smaller, you have to deal
with more sail than you want in those wind conditions. There are other
potential problems, but they're minor (in my opinion)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Go for it, You'll love it (after you get used to it).
Buy the best you can afford. The Profurl units in the group purchase are
great. I know several people that have them, and the group prices seem
good.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Props</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I have an A4 in my boat. It had the standard 2 blade
13X7 which kept the engine RPM max too low. I changed to the Cruising
Design Atomic 4 Prop (7/8 shaft). It's OK, not as great as I originally
thought after installing it. It does let the engine run up to a better max
RPM (for engine health), but it's not as great in reverse as they say.
Believe me on this. I'm still tending to an ankle/calf injury I got last
May that was ultimately caused by my own stubborn stupidity when I
couldn't back out of my slip due to high winds. The Prop also doesn't
react well to things like a plastic bag getting caught on a blade, but no
prop does. All I can say is this prop works but it's not the end all, be
all of props for the A4 in an A30.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Regards,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Brian Free
Spirit
#497</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>