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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi Jim, </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> A fresh water rinse is better than
just salt water. Fresh water cooling is really the way to protect your engine.
Moyer also sells a kit which mounts slightly differently, so there are 2 "kit"
options.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> My engine has lived it's entire life in salt
water (1972 vintage). I bought this boat about 5 1/2 years ago and about 4 years
ago decided to open it up over the winter for a major routine cleanout. I also
needed to replace the manifold due to a pinhole leak. I did it all by the Moyer
Newsletter Method (before there was a Moyer Manual). I can't say much about the
condition of the manifold since I discarded it for new. The engine itself was
loaded with crud which I was able to clean out using various tools, wires and
solvents. My head and manifold studs were at the Moyer minimum as far as
uncorroded thread length is concerned. (Yes, I replaced ALL of them also) Other
than that, the engine was in excellent shape. After putting it all back together
and adjusting everything there is to adjust, it started up and has been running
like a top ever since. I've been contemplating installing Moyer's fresh water
cooling kit ever since (still contemplating).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Once a year, I run enough
automotive radiator cleaner to fill the engine into it and let it sit for 1/2
hour or so before flushing and running saltwater again. This year, I may use
vinegar instead. At the end of each season, I fresh water flush (using the water
from my water tank, killing two birds with one stone) as a part of
winterization. At the beginning of this winter, I removed the thermostat
(routine cleaning) for the first time since the major clean-out. It was a little
dirty, but not bad at all.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> To sum up this topic,
Fresh water cooling is THE WAY to go, but if not, it just takes more
maintenance.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Next topic: Groco's T
fitting. I agree with you. I don't trust it.
I do know several people that have them and all but one have had no problems
with the fitting. The one who had the problem is the type of person who
shouldn't be doing anything mechanical anyway! He claimed it was the fittings
fault, but I doubt it. Luckily, it wasn't catastrophic.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> I was able to find
everything I needed at West Marine to make up a sort of manifold to do the same
thing at less cost than Groco's fitting. I used a hose from the thru hull valve
to a hose nipple into an elbow to a pipe nipple to a T to a pipe nipple to an
elbow to a hose nipple to a hose that goes to the water pump intake. From the T
to a pipe nipple to a Gate valve to a hose nipple. Hose stays removed unless
being used. (Yes, I said GATE valve. It's used twice a year and the handle is
easily removed so it doesn't interfere with anything). This allows me to shut
the thru hull, open the flush valve, run the engine with liquid in a bucket on
the cabin sole, and reverse the valves to run seawater again faster than I could
type it out. It's also easier to connect the fresh water hose since it's right
in front of the flywheel not down at the thru hull. I've got the manifold
strapped down to the starboard engine room bulkhead. It's a pretty neat
installation.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Oh By The Way, if you
install a fresh water cooling kit, shouldn't you be flushing the heat
exchanger's salt water side anyway?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Regards and Good Luck, (sorry about rambling
on---Cabin Fever still)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Brian Free
Spirit A30 #497</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=Miabarchet@aol.com
href="mailto:Miabarchet@aol.com">Miabarchet@aol.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=public-list@alberg30.org
href="mailto:public-list@alberg30.org">public-list@alberg30.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, March 24, 2001 6:52
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [Alberg30] Fresh water
cooling</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><BR>
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<TD vAlign=top width="10%" bgColor=#ffffff><FONT face=Arial
color=#000000>Subj: </FONT></TD>
<TD bgColor=#ffffff><FONT face=Arial color=#000000><B>Re: [Alberg30]
Fresh Water Cooling</B></FONT></TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=top width="10%" bgColor=#ffffff><FONT face=Arial
color=#000000>Date: </FONT></TD>
<TD bgColor=#ffffff><FONT face=Arial color=#000000>3/24/2001 6:18:18 PM
Eastern Standard Time</FONT></TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=top width="10%" bgColor=#ffffff><FONT face=Arial
color=#000000>From: </FONT></TD>
<TD bgColor=#ffffff><A title=mailto:Miabarchet
href="mailto:Miabarchet"><FONT face=Arial
color=#000000>Miabarchet</FONT></A></TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=top width="10%" bgColor=#ffffff><FONT face=Arial
color=#000000>To: </FONT></TD>
<TD bgColor=#ffffff><A title=mailto:public-list@alberg30.org
href="mailto:public-list@alberg30.org"><FONT face=Arial
color=#000000>public-list@alberg30.org</FONT></A></TD></TR><FONT face=Arial
color=#000000></TBODY></FONT></TABLE>
<P><FONT face=Arial color=#000000><BR></FONT><FONT color=#000000 size=2><FONT
PTSIZE="10"></FONT><BR><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" PTSIZE="10"
BACK="#ffffff">I currently sail in fresh water (Lake Ontario) but plan to
relocate to Oriental NC next year. I am wondering about the need to protect my
Atomic 4 from corrosion when a sailing in salt or brackish water. I know
Indigo sells a fresh water cooling system. Are they necessary? Is flushing the
engine with fresh water adequate or advisable?<BR><BR>I recently saw a Groco
Engine Flush Kit at Boat US (pg.467, 2001 Catalog). It screws into a
seacock and Tees off with a quick release plug. The plug is removed and
replaced with an adapter with a female garden hose fitting. The weak link
seems to be the quick release plug. It seals with 2 O-rings on grooved in the
outside diameter of the plug.<BR><BR>I've considered making my own but would
need a bronze nipple (from seacock to Tee) and a bronze valve neither of witch
exist.</FONT></FONT></P>
<P>Jim Allocco</P>
<P>Barcheta Mia #565</P>
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