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<P> <FONT SIZE=2>The laz hatch was redid with a thin peace of luan (stained), underside was reinforced with a cross peace -- its solid enough to step on, not jump on.</FONT></P>
<P> <FONT SIZE=2>The seating was done with solid teak trim and teak veneer on marine plywood -- one of the seat's veneer warped, but is fixable -- got to seal the underside. It is a good idea to put weather stripping underneath the long edge of the seat opposite the piano hinge to absorb shock when the seat slams shut. The prior seats screws ripped right out of the marine plywood -- that's in part why I used solid teak trim in hopes it would help hold.</FONT></P>
<P> <FONT SIZE=2>In hindsight I'd go with solid teak -- its $14 a bd/ft near here and no worries when it is stomped, slammed or kicked. </FONT></P>
<P> <FONT SIZE=2>Linc, Gypsy 138, Oyster Bay</FONT>
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<P><FONT SIZE=2>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>Greetings--</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2> It's time to rebuild the lazarette seat/hatch covers in the cockpit.</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>The originals are pegged together boards which by now leak like crazy. What</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>have people done to improve them? Can it be as simple as 1/2 inch exterior</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>plywood epoxied/painted? It would be nice to be able to step on them</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>without worrying about going through, too. I always like that in a boat.</FONT>
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<P><FONT SIZE=2> Many thanks for any suggestions re: this critical matter.</FONT>
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