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--></style><title>RE: [Alberg30] Advice on Restoring Gunwhales,
Lazarett</title></head><body>
<div>one caution for those who haven't used a heat gun - it can harm
the glass, don't overheat in any one spot.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Wally Moran</div>
<div>s/v Publisher's Choice</div>
<div><br></div>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1"
color="#0000FF">Having Grown up on Wooden boats & now owning 2
different but aged Alberg 30's, I would suggest the following ( which
I am adhering to myself).</font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1"
color="#0000FF">1. My Aunt owned my previous boat #57 Infinity which
has the thick deep teak rails and seats. The wood is beautiful. My
aunt used to Varnish it. Tons of annual maintenance went into
finishing it every year. </font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite> <font
face="Arial" size="-1" color="#0000FF">If I continued to varnish
I would only use captains varnish ( i'm a sucker for the traditional),
the biggest pain but the best finish there is. Remove using a heat gun
& scraper. Skip the sander, that only removes you skin faster.
Actually the sanders work but not to the extent that the heat gun
does. Sand afterwards if need be.</font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1"
color="#0000FF">2.My second boat has the newer teak jobs where there
is thin amounts of teak screwed in but not too difficult to pull and
replace. If you choose to replace do so only where you have to or
where there are leaks (so you can caulk). The newer boats had
fibergalss seats so little teak to mess with.</font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite> </blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1"
color="#0000FF">Regardless of teak on or off if you have to remove the
old varnish use the heat gun It will also help to get it out from
between the grains. Sanding won't.</font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite> </blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1"
color="#0000FF">Either way, bowing to my wifes desire to have the real
teak look we opted for oil. We now cleaned the teak this spring with
bleach & soapy (detegent) water. You may also use a power washer,
which does an awesome job, but watch out for taking off too much teak.
Then upon clean and dry we oiled the teak with teak oil from west
marine. Stuff looks great. Little maintenance (During the summer oil
once a month to keep it looking good). And thats
it.</font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite> </blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1"
color="#0000FF">The teak keeps up on its own. No need for too much
work.</font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite> </blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1"
color="#0000FF">C.B. Currier</font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1"
color="#0000FF">Infinity #57</font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1"
color="#0000FF">Daybreak #458</font><br>
<blockquote><font face="Times New Roman" size="-1">-----Original
Message-----<br>
<b>From:</b> public-list-admin@alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-admin@alberg30.org]<b>On Behalf Of</b> Hansen,
Richard LTC OF-TF<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, June 24, 2002 10:03 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> public-list@alberg30.org<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Alberg30] Advice on Restoring Gunwhales, Lazarettes,
Hatches</font><br>
<font face="Times New Roman" size="-1"></font></blockquote>
<blockquote><font size="-1">Task: Restore the original woodwork
on Sunspur, 235 (1967); badly needs it. Teak appears dry, grey,
and worn as it could be (no splits yet). Proximity/availability
to boat suggests removal of trim.</font><br>
</blockquote>
<blockquote><font size="-1">Basic question: Is it
advisable or not advisable to remove various pieces to better
facilitate restoration? Thought about removing all BUT the toe rail
(gunwhales, stern hatch, lazarette seats, companionway
hatch/rails).</font><br>
</blockquote>
<blockquote><font size="-1">Detailed questions:</font><br>
<font size="-1">1. At the risk of inciting internet civil war, I'll
ask if the age/condition of the teak suggest oil treatment vs.
varnish?</font><br>
</blockquote>
<blockquote><font size="-1">2. Gunwhales - I see 7-8 horizontal screws
and 2 into the cabin, but there is a teak quarter round on the
outside. No apparent thru-hulls so I presume that 1/4 rd rail
attaches to gunwhale not glass?</font><br>
</blockquote>
<blockquote><font size="-1">3. Lazarette seats - Would appear to be
easier to disassemble seat with hinge attached, i.e., remove screws
attaching it to glass?</font><br>
</blockquote>
<blockquote><font size="-1">4. Companion Hatch - four metal retaining
plates are a bear to access tighten untighten, whats the
secret?</font><br>
</blockquote>
<blockquote><font size="-1">Would appreciate any advice/experience you
can pass along. I routinely underestimate dissassembly/assembly
jobs, and find out afterward that I should have just fixed in place.
Your thoughts?</font></blockquote>
</blockquote>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
<x-sigsep><pre>--
</pre></x-sigsep>
<div>The gods do not deduct from man's allotted span the hours spent
in sailing. Anon<br>
www.georgianbaysailing.ca for interesting reading for sailors</div>
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