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My experience with oiling teak is that it requires oiling at least twice
a month or it fades into gray very quickly and gets ugly dark streaks and
stains from mildew and other microorganisms that absolutely flourish in
the hot humid atmosphere aboard a boat...
<br>I have used both Boat US teak oil as well as some more expensive ones
and given up on all of them! I only varnish - if you do the job right,
you can touch up at the end of the season and go the next couple of years
with just touchups and a new few coats over the old...There used to be
a popular two part oil product called DEKS OJAY...I haven't heard of it
in quite a while...the number one was a nice oil type finish that looked
more real than CETOL...Number 2 was, I believe, a varnish based sealer...
<p>Scott Wallace, HELL-DIVER Bluenose 24
<br>
<br>
<p>"Hansen, Richard LTC OF-TF" wrote:
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<span class=043312020-24062002><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF"><font size=-1>Thanks
C.B. and Wally. Won't be my problem as there is very little finish
remaining...just old, grey, micro-chiseled/raised teak that will definitely
require sanding.</font></font></font></span>
<blockquote dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<div class="OutlookMessageHeader" dir="ltr"><font face="Tahoma"><font size=-1>-----Original
Message-----</font></font>
<br><font face="Tahoma"><font size=-1><b>From:</b> Wally Moran [<A HREF="mailto:helm@georgianbaysailing.ca">mailto:helm@georgianbaysailing.ca</A>]</font></font>
<br><font face="Tahoma"><font size=-1><b>Sent:</b> Monday, June 24, 2002
4:00 PM</font></font>
<br><font face="Tahoma"><font size=-1><b>To:</b> public-list@alberg30.org</font></font>
<br><font face="Tahoma"><font size=-1><b>Subject:</b> RE: [Alberg30] Advice
on Restoring Gunwhales, Lazarettes, Hatches</font></font>
<br> </div>
one caution for those who haven't used a heat gun - it can harm the glass,
don't overheat in any one spot. Wally Morans/v Publisher's Choice
<blockquote cite type="cite"><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF"><font size=-1>Having
Grown up on Wooden boats & now owning 2 different but aged Alberg 30's,
I would suggest the following ( which I am adhering to myself).</font></font></font></blockquote>
<blockquote cite type="cite"><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF"><font size=-1>1.
My Aunt owned my previous boat #57 Infinity which has the thick deep teak
rails and seats. The wood is beautiful. My aunt used to Varnish it. Tons
of annual maintenance went into finishing it every year.</font></font></font></blockquote>
<blockquote cite type="cite"> <font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF"><font size=-1>If
I continued to varnish I would only use captains varnish ( i'm a sucker
for the traditional), the biggest pain but the best finish there is. Remove
using a heat gun & scraper. Skip the sander, that only removes you
skin faster. Actually the sanders work but not to the extent that the heat
gun does. Sand afterwards if need be.</font></font></font></blockquote>
<blockquote cite type="cite"><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF"><font size=-1>2.My
second boat has the newer teak jobs where there is thin amounts of teak
screwed in but not too difficult to pull and replace. If you choose to
replace do so only where you have to or where there are leaks (so you can
caulk). The newer boats had fibergalss seats so little teak to mess with.</font></font></font></blockquote>
<blockquote cite type="cite"> </blockquote>
<blockquote cite type="cite"><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF"><font size=-1>Regardless
of teak on or off if you have to remove the old varnish use the heat gun
It will also help to get it out from between the grains. Sanding won't.</font></font></font></blockquote>
<blockquote cite type="cite"> </blockquote>
<blockquote cite type="cite"><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF"><font size=-1>Either
way, bowing to my wifes desire to have the real teak look we opted for
oil. We now cleaned the teak this spring with bleach & soapy (detegent)
water. You may also use a power washer, which does an awesome job, but
watch out for taking off too much teak. Then upon clean and dry we oiled
the teak with teak oil from west marine. Stuff looks great. Little maintenance
(During the summer oil once a month to keep it looking good). And thats
it.</font></font></font></blockquote>
<blockquote cite type="cite"> </blockquote>
<blockquote cite type="cite"><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF"><font size=-1>The
teak keeps up on its own. No need for too much work.</font></font></font></blockquote>
<blockquote cite type="cite"> </blockquote>
<blockquote cite type="cite"><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF"><font size=-1>C.B.
Currier</font></font></font></blockquote>
<blockquote cite type="cite"><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF"><font size=-1>Infinity
#57</font></font></font></blockquote>
<blockquote cite type="cite"><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF"><font size=-1>Daybreak
#458</font></font></font>
<blockquote><font face="Times New Roman"><font size=-1>-----Original Message-----</font></font>
<br><font face="Times New Roman"><font size=-1><b>From:</b> public-list-admin@alberg30.org
[<A HREF="mailto:public-list-admin@alberg30.org">mailto:public-list-admin@alberg30.org</A>]<b>On Behalf Of</b> Hansen, Richard
LTC OF-TF</font></font>
<br><font face="Times New Roman"><font size=-1><b>Sent:</b> Monday, June
24, 2002 10:03 AM</font></font>
<br><font face="Times New Roman"><font size=-1><b>To:</b> public-list@alberg30.org</font></font>
<br><font face="Times New Roman"><font size=-1><b>Subject:</b> [Alberg30]
Advice on Restoring Gunwhales, Lazarettes, Hatches</font></font></blockquote>
<blockquote><font size=-1>Task: Restore the original woodwork on
Sunspur, 235 (1967); badly needs it. Teak appears dry, grey, and
worn as it could be (no splits yet). Proximity/availability to boat
suggests removal of trim.</font></blockquote>
<blockquote><font size=-1>Basic question: Is it advisable or
not advisable to remove various pieces to better facilitate restoration?
Thought about removing all BUT the toe rail (gunwhales, stern hatch, lazarette
seats, companionway hatch/rails).</font></blockquote>
<blockquote><font size=-1>Detailed questions:</font>
<br><font size=-1>1. At the risk of inciting internet civil war, I'll ask
if the age/condition of the teak suggest oil treatment vs. varnish?</font></blockquote>
<blockquote><font size=-1>2. Gunwhales - I see 7-8 horizontal screws and
2 into the cabin, but there is a teak quarter round on the outside.
No apparent thru-hulls so I presume that 1/4 rd rail attaches to gunwhale
not glass?</font></blockquote>
<blockquote><font size=-1>3. Lazarette seats - Would appear to be easier
to disassemble seat with hinge attached, i.e., remove screws attaching
it to glass?</font></blockquote>
<blockquote><font size=-1>4. Companion Hatch - four metal retaining plates
are a bear to access tighten untighten, whats the secret?</font></blockquote>
<blockquote><font size=-1>Would appreciate any advice/experience you can
pass along. I routinely underestimate dissassembly/assembly jobs,
and find out afterward that I should have just fixed in place. Your
thoughts?</font></blockquote>
</blockquote>
<X-SIGSEP>
<pre>--</pre>
</X-SIGSEP>The gods do not deduct from man's allotted span the hours spent
in sailing. Anon
<br>www.georgianbaysailing.ca for interesting reading for sailors</blockquote>
</blockquote>
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