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<P>I forgot that you have one of the earlier boats. Try this for removing the main hatch. You have two metal strips down each side of the companionway which could be easily removed and then the hatch should slide out. You may not have to remove the metal pieces all of the way. If this isn't a solution, you could remove some of the screws on the brass hatch track at the aft end; remove just enough screws to be able to lift the track slightly and slide the hatch off. Coamings should be no more difficult to remove that to re-install. [how's that for being non-commital?] Be cafeful not to break them. Under the 1/4 round, between the fiberglass and the wood coaming is a rubber gasket if the coamings have never been removed before. The 1/4 round is attached to the coamings and most likely will not come off without breaking [especially if I was doing the job]. The gasket won't survive and you will use a sealant of choice when you re-install the coamings [3M-101; 3M-5!
200 (don't plan to remove them again); Sikaflex (sp?); or Boat Life]. Check for rot at the bottom of the coaming! People say that teak doesn't rot, but that's not true - all woods rot eventually - some are more resistant than others and teak is very resistant, but I have seen rotted coamings. For sanders I use several differ ones - under the toerails...hum? probably a Black & Decker Mouse sander or by hand. [available at Home Depot] - how's that for free advertising [Home Depot and B&D can just send their tax-deductable donations to the A30 Assn c/o George to help offset cost of the website] <BR></P></DIV>
<P>Thanks for your kind words, but I would not consider myself an expert, just someone who is brave enough to dive in and make mistakes.</P></DIV>
<P>Mike Lehman </P>
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<DIV>"Gilleleje" #505 </DIV>
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<P>"One can never enter the same river twice. The river is always new; the man is forever changed."</P>
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<DIV></DIV>----Original Message Follows----
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<DIV></DIV>From: "Hansen, Richard LTC OF-TF" <RICHARD.HANSEN@HQDA.ARMY.MIL>
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<DIV></DIV>To: Mike Lehman <SAIL_505@HOTMAIL.COM>
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<DIV></DIV>Subject: RE: [Alberg30] Advice on Restoring Gunwhales, Lazarettes, Hatches
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<DIV></DIV>Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 14:38:34 -0400
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<DIV></DIV>Thanks Mike. After reading a year of your responses on various topics, I
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<DIV></DIV>rate you as an expert; I am a novice, but handy and eager. So, I'll read
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<DIV></DIV>your advice as encouragement to go for it. Hatches seem easy. I did
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<DIV></DIV>replace a screw on underneath of track with elbow srewdriver and it was
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<DIV></DIV>challenging. Thought maybe the stern cap or edge of hatch could be left off
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<DIV></DIV>until hatch is slid on tracks, then screw in "gable" end of hatch? Can you
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<DIV></DIV>provide any further details about removing-reinstalling the coamings on
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<DIV></DIV>gunnels? Any particular sanding tool you'd recommend to sand portion of
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<DIV></DIV>toerail under the tracks?
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<DIV></DIV>-----Original Message-----
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<DIV></DIV>From: Mike Lehman [mailto:sail_505@hotmail.com]
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<DIV></DIV>Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 2:16 PM
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<DIV></DIV>To: public-list@alberg30.org
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<DIV></DIV>Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Advice on Restoring Gunwhales, Lazarettes, Hatches
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<DIV></DIV>I personally would take everything [except toerails] off. It's easier to
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<DIV></DIV>rebuild hatches in the shop. Oil vs. varnish, I use something in between
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<DIV></DIV>called Armada. The gloss product [in comes gloss and semi-gloss] give the
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<DIV></DIV>appearance of varnish that I happen to like, it lasts longer than oil and
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<DIV></DIV>doesn't require as much maintenance as varnish. The main hatch is the
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<DIV></DIV>hardest one to remove, a right-anlge screw drive works, but it still ain't
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<DIV></DIV>easy. On the toerails I would make sure the tracks are on well and the wood
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<DIV></DIV>beneath the track is in good shape [or replace it. Also make sure the plugs
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<DIV></DIV>on the screws are in good condition. Good Luck!
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<DIV></DIV>Mike Lehman
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<DIV></DIV>"Gilleleje" #505
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<DIV></DIV>"One can never enter the same river twice. The river is always new; the man
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<DIV></DIV>is forever changed."
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<DIV></DIV>----Original Message Follows----
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<DIV></DIV>From: "Hansen, Richard LTC OF-TF"
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<DIV></DIV>Reply-To: public-list@alberg30.org
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<DIV></DIV>To: public-list@alberg30.org
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<DIV></DIV>Subject: [Alberg30] Advice on Restoring Gunwhales, Lazarettes, Hatches
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<DIV></DIV>Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 10:02:34 -0400
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<DIV></DIV>Task: Restore the original woodwork on Sunspur, 235 (1967); badly needs it.
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<DIV></DIV>Teak appears dry, grey, and worn as it could be (no splits yet).
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<DIV></DIV>Proximity/availability to boat suggests removal of trim.
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<DIV></DIV>Basic question: Is it advisable or not advisable to remove various pieces
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<DIV></DIV>to better facilitate restoration? Thought about removing all BUT the toe
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<DIV></DIV>rail (gunwhales, stern hatch, lazarette seats, companionway hatch/rails).
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<DIV></DIV>Detailed questions:
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<DIV></DIV>1. At the risk of inciting internet civil war, I'll ask if the age/condition
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<DIV></DIV>of the teak suggest oil treatment vs. varnish?
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<DIV></DIV>2. Gunwhales - I see 7-8 horizontal screws and 2 into the cabin, but there
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<DIV></DIV>is a teak quarter round on the outside. No apparent thru-hulls so I presume
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<DIV></DIV>that 1/4 rd rail attaches to gunwhale not glass?
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<DIV></DIV>3. Lazarette seats - Would appear to be easier to disassemble seat with
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<DIV></DIV>hinge attached, i.e., remove screws attaching it to glass?
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<DIV></DIV>4. Companion Hatch - four metal retaining plates are a bear to access
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<DIV></DIV>tighten untighten, whats the secret?
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<DIV></DIV>Would appreciate any advice/experience you can pass along. I routinely
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<DIV></DIV>underestimate dissassembly/assembly jobs, and find out afterward that I
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<DIV></DIV>should have just fixed in place. Your thoughts?
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