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<TITLE>RE: [Alberg30] Advice on Restoring Gunwhales, Lazarett</TITLE>
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<DIV><SPAN class=043312020-24062002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Thanks
C.B. and Wally. Won't be my problem as there is very little
finish remaining...just old, grey, micro-chiseled/raised teak that will
definitely require sanding.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Wally Moran
[mailto:helm@georgianbaysailing.ca]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, June 24, 2002 4:00
PM<BR><B>To:</B> public-list@alberg30.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> RE: [Alberg30]
Advice on Restoring Gunwhales, Lazarettes, Hatches<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>one caution for those who haven't used a heat gun - it can harm the
glass, don't overheat in any one spot.</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Wally Moran</DIV>
<DIV>s/v Publisher's Choice</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE cite type="cite"><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=-1>Having
Grown up on Wooden boats & now owning 2 different but aged Alberg 30's,
I would suggest the following ( which I am adhering to
myself).</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE cite type="cite"><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=-1>1. My
Aunt owned my previous boat #57 Infinity which has the thick deep teak rails
and seats. The wood is beautiful. My aunt used to Varnish it. Tons of annual
maintenance went into finishing it every year. </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE cite type="cite"> <FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=-1>If I continued to varnish I would only use
captains varnish ( i'm a sucker for the traditional), the biggest pain but
the best finish there is. Remove using a heat gun & scraper. Skip the
sander, that only removes you skin faster. Actually the sanders work but not
to the extent that the heat gun does. Sand afterwards if need
be.</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE cite type="cite"><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=-1>2.My
second boat has the newer teak jobs where there is thin amounts of teak
screwed in but not too difficult to pull and replace. If you choose to
replace do so only where you have to or where there are leaks (so you can
caulk). The newer boats had fibergalss seats so little teak to mess
with.</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE cite type="cite"> </BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE cite type="cite"><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=-1>Regardless of teak on or off if you have to remove the old varnish
use the heat gun It will also help to get it out from between the grains.
Sanding won't.</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE cite type="cite"><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT> </BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE cite type="cite"><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=-1>Either
way, bowing to my wifes desire to have the real teak look we opted for oil.
We now cleaned the teak this spring with bleach & soapy (detegent)
water. You may also use a power washer, which does an awesome job, but watch
out for taking off too much teak. Then upon clean and dry we oiled the
teak with teak oil from west marine. Stuff looks great. Little maintenance
(During the summer oil once a month to keep it looking good). And thats
it.</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE cite type="cite"> </BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE cite type="cite"><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=-1>The teak
keeps up on its own. No need for too much work.</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE cite type="cite"> </BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE cite type="cite"><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=-1>C.B.
Currier</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE cite type="cite"><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=-1>Infinity
#57</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE cite type="cite"><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=-1>Daybreak
#458</FONT><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=-1>-----Original
Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> public-list-admin@alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-admin@alberg30.org]<B>On Behalf Of</B> Hansen, Richard
LTC OF-TF<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, June 24, 2002 10:03 AM<BR><B>To:</B>
public-list@alberg30.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> [Alberg30] Advice on Restoring
Gunwhales, Lazarettes, Hatches</FONT><BR><FONT face="Times New Roman"
size=-1></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT size=-1>Task: Restore the original woodwork on
Sunspur, 235 (1967); badly needs it. Teak appears dry, grey, and
worn as it could be (no splits yet). Proximity/availability to boat
suggests removal of trim.</FONT><BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT size=-1>Basic question: Is it advisable or
not advisable to remove various pieces to better facilitate restoration?
Thought about removing all BUT the toe rail (gunwhales, stern hatch,
lazarette seats, companionway hatch/rails).</FONT><BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT size=-1>Detailed questions:</FONT><BR><FONT size=-1>1.
At the risk of inciting internet civil war, I'll ask if the age/condition
of the teak suggest oil treatment vs. varnish?</FONT><BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT size=-1>2. Gunwhales - I see 7-8 horizontal screws and 2
into the cabin, but there is a teak quarter round on the outside. No
apparent thru-hulls so I presume that 1/4 rd rail attaches to gunwhale not
glass?</FONT><BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT size=-1>3. Lazarette seats - Would appear to be easier
to disassemble seat with hinge attached, i.e., remove screws attaching it
to glass?</FONT><BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT size=-1>4. Companion Hatch - four metal retaining plates
are a bear to access tighten untighten, whats the
secret?</FONT><BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT size=-1>Would appreciate any advice/experience you can
pass along. I routinely underestimate dissassembly/assembly jobs,
and find out afterward that I should have just fixed in place. Your
thoughts?</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><X-SIGSEP><PRE>--
</PRE></X-SIGSEP>
<DIV>The gods do not deduct from man's allotted span the hours spent in
sailing. Anon<BR>www.georgianbaysailing.ca for interesting reading for
sailors</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>