<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P> Sure, The seal remains intake while in the water. It probably only works with a 2-blade prop, wiggled back and forth to clear the rudder. Clamp some vice-grips around the shaft so you don't lose it all the way out - then you would have a problem.<BR><BR></P></DIV>
<DIV></DIV><BR><BR><BR>
<DIV>Mike Lehman </DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>"Gilleleje" #505 </DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<P>"One can never enter the same river twice. The river is always new; the man is forever changed."</P>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>----Original Message Follows----
<DIV></DIV>From: "C.B. Currier" <CBCURRIER@SPINRX.COM>
<DIV></DIV>Reply-To: public-list@alberg30.org
<DIV></DIV>To: <PUBLIC-LIST@ALBERG30.ORG>
<DIV></DIV>Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Moving the prop shaft
<DIV></DIV>Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 07:12:10 -0400 (EDT)
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Just wanted to reiterate T.C.'s message,
<DIV></DIV>Does any one know if there is any trick to sliding the prop shaft aft?
<DIV></DIV>Can it be done? If so how? (Loosen the stuffing box, then what?)
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Thanks,
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>C.B. Currier
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>T.C. Williams said:
<DIV></DIV>> Hello all,
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>> The rear main seal on Argo is leaking severely enough that I can't keep
<DIV></DIV>> oil in the engine. This presents the obvious problem of effectively
<DIV></DIV>> not having an engine. Thinking this can't be that tough of a job, I
<DIV></DIV>> went over to a friends house (C.B. Courier) and examined an Atomic 4
<DIV></DIV>> sitting on a workbench. First, remove three bolts to disconnect the
<DIV></DIV>> prop shaft. Remove one large nut on the end of the shaft and use a
<DIV></DIV>> gear puller to remove the flange. The rear main cover is held on by
<DIV></DIV>> six bolts. With the aid of an air ratchet and compressor, we had
<DIV></DIV>> everything apart in less than 15 minutes. Since I know I would be
<DIV></DIV>> climbing over the engine in a tight space, I figured I should use that
<DIV></DIV>> time and multiply by 4 for my estimated repair time. You know where
<DIV></DIV>> this is going.
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>> Once the 3 bolts from the shaft were removed, the shaft and the engine
<DIV></DIV>> would turn independently. However, once the stuffing box was taken
<DIV></DIV>> apart and the nut moved up the shaft to provide clearance, the shaft
<DIV></DIV>> would not move aft even the slightest. The rudder has been turned to
<DIV></DIV>> the side so I don't think that's it. Before I get someone to dive on
<DIV></DIV>> the boat or have it hauled out, I was hoping someone would have some
<DIV></DIV>> words of wisdom.
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>> Thanks in advance,
<DIV></DIV>> T.C. Williams
<DIV></DIV>> Argo 247
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>> +---------------------------------------------------------------+ |
<DIV></DIV>> Boatowners Mechanical And Electrical Manual by Nigel Calder | |
<DIV></DIV>> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/007009618X/alberg30-20 |
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<DIV></DIV>| Boatowners Mechanical And Electrical Manual by Nigel Calder |
<DIV></DIV>| http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/007009618X/alberg30-20 |
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