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FWIW, here's how I did my exhaust on my A4 equipped boat..<br>
<br>
Right out of the flange, with a 1" nipple I did a 90 and went up 8 inches
or so. Don't use a closed nipple: you won't be able to fasten the flange
to the exhaust manifold - the top bolt will be obscured. I did most of this
assembly off the boat.) Then another 90 to go straight back. Then a 45 to
start heading down. Immediately, I used a Y, injecting the water "vertically",
the exhaust still running at 45 degrees. I guess this is more like 55 degrees
as the engine is mounted at an angle. Then a short nipple to which the 1.25
hose was connected, the other end of the hose connected with a very short
run to the plastic muffler. It's always worked just fine. The muffler is
not too hot to touch.<br>
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I used galvanized 1.25 pipe. There are two arguments against using this.
The first is it isn't as durable as bronze. The second is that, if raised
to a high enough temperature, the zinc can gas off and be dangerous. <br>
<br>
With regard to the first, if I had it to do again, I'd use bronze, IF I could
find a Y (it was almost impossible to find in galvanized - I had to order
it). Still, the galvy stuff has been durable. The alternative to the Y is
a very expensive water injection elbow - a better solution, but the system
I was replacing didn't have one, and I couldn't find one.<br>
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As to the zinc gassing off, I think you'd need to be near welding temperatures
for it to matter much. I could be wrong, but I've never had a problem.<br>
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Alberg30 wrote:<br>
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<div><font size="2">If I understand your question. You cannot run hot
exhaust in a rubber hose from the exaust flange. </font></div>
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<div><font size="2">Bill " WINSOM"</font></div>
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