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<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Mike yer awesome -</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=sail_505@hotmail.com href="mailto:sail_505@hotmail.com">Mike
Lehman</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=public-list@alberg30.org
href="mailto:public-list@alberg30.org">A30 Public List</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, November 16, 2002 3:01
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Alberg30] Help- Tin Canning
Bow</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>This is not a difficult repair. The deck/hull joint on #457 is
pop-riveted together with alunimun rivets. If salt water gets into the joint,
it oxidizes the rivets and they fail. They also will fail in a hard collision
with another boat of a bouy or other fixed object. The toe rail is just a cap
rail screwed on with #10 SS screws with wood plugs to cover the heads. The
first step in the repair is to remove the toe rail. Depending on whether you
plan to replace it or save and reuse it will determine how much care you give
on the removal. Once the toe rail is removed, it is a simple job to drill or
pound out the remains of the rivets. Re-assembly should be done with 5200 as a
sealant and 10 x 24 or 32 SS machine screws. It takes two people, one inside
the boat to hold and tighten the bolts and the other on the outside to hold
the screws. The screws should be flat head (either phillips, square heads or
slotted) and counter sunk slightly. I used phillips each time I have done
this. Use clamps to hold the deck and hull together while installing the
screws, start at one end and work your way along. Once the hull,deck joint is
bolted back together, re-install the teak toe rail. I would use 5200 as a
bedding compound for the toe rail, but don't expect to take it off again in
one piece. In my personal opinion, any boat of this vintage should be
re-fitted bow-to-stern on both starboard and port sides. You wonder where
those leaks are in your boat - this is a very likely culprit. Once you have
completed this project, you will be comforted in knowing that your boat is now
stronger that ever. Estimate time - 1 day.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B>
John Birch</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, November 16, 2002 1:42
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> Alberg 30 public list</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Alberg30] Help- Tin
Canning Bow</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>So the sheer clamp has failed - that explains
your oil canning - there was no top plate (formed by the deck
connection) to prevent it. </FONT><FONT face=Arial size=2>Has the hull
delaminated as well or are the glass layers solidly bound to each other in
the vertical plain?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>John</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=RReitz6289@aol.com
href="mailto:RReitz6289@aol.com">RReitz6289@aol.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=Public-list@alberg30.org
href="mailto:Public-list@alberg30.org">Public-list@alberg30.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, November 14, 2002
8:18 PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [Alberg30] Help- Tin Canning
Bow</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=arial,helvetica><FONT lang=0 face=Arial size=2
FAMILY="SANSSERIF">While placing my Friend " Dances With Waves " #457, on
the hard for the winter. The yard master discovered, and I conformed, that
the forward part of the port bow is seperating from the deck. The toe rail
is about 1/2 to 3/4 inches above the deck. The area had been filled with
caulk which is now drying and falling out. I can oil can the top section
of the hull about 1/4 inch, for a distance of from 6 inches aft of the bow
for a distance of about 30 to 36 inches. To eliminate the possibility of
water entering between the toe rail and the hull, and possibly freezing
over the winter, I have covered the area with plastic and duct tape<BR>My
thoughts are that I will have to remove the toe rail, scrape away all
caulking, press the hull against the inner hull and fasten it to the deck
in some manner, probably screwing, then covering the area with fibreglas
and epoxy, finishing the job by reseating the toe rail.<BR><BR>Has anyone
had a similar problem? How did they ahndle it ? What does the group
feel about my solution? Can anyone think of problems I might encounter? I
am wide open to suggestions.<BR><BR>Thank you,<BR>Ralph Reitz<BR>Dances
With Waves #457<BR>Sea Bright New Jersey</FONT><FONT lang=0
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