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<DIV><SPAN class=563221015-18112002>Dear John,</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=563221015-18112002></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=563221015-18112002>Mike and I did both side og my boat last
spring bow to stern. I can tell you the boat is completely
dry. It took us 2 days to complete the toe rail removal and the sealing
and thru bolting of the joint. The only thing I would add to Mike's
message is to use NYLOK nuts on the 10-32 bolts. THey are much more
effective than lock washers. They will never come loose.
</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=563221015-18112002></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=563221015-18112002>My wood rails were to far gone to
salvage. so they had to be replaced, I can talk to you off the board
about cost and installation. I am in the A30 yearbook.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=563221015-18112002></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=563221015-18112002>
<P><FONT face=Arial size=2>Fair Winds</FONT> </P>
<P><FONT face=Arial size=2>Larry Morris</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial
size=2>Solstice #501</FONT> </P></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=563221015-18112002></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=563221015-18112002> </SPAN></DIV>
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<DIV align=left class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr><FONT
face=Tahoma>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>
public-list-bounces@alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces@alberg30.org]<B>On Behalf Of </B>John
Birch<BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, November 16, 2002 3:06 PM<BR><B>To:</B> Alberg
30 public list<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Alberg30] Help- Tin Canning
Bow<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Mike yer awesome -</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A href="mailto:sail_505@hotmail.com" title=sail_505@hotmail.com>Mike
Lehman</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
href="mailto:public-list@alberg30.org" title=public-list@alberg30.org>A30
Public List</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, November 16, 2002 3:01
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Alberg30] Help- Tin
Canning Bow</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>This is not a difficult repair. The deck/hull joint on #457 is
pop-riveted together with alunimun rivets. If salt water gets into the
joint, it oxidizes the rivets and they fail. They also will fail in a hard
collision with another boat of a bouy or other fixed object. The toe rail is
just a cap rail screwed on with #10 SS screws with wood plugs to cover the
heads. The first step in the repair is to remove the toe rail. Depending on
whether you plan to replace it or save and reuse it will determine how much
care you give on the removal. Once the toe rail is removed, it is a simple
job to drill or pound out the remains of the rivets. Re-assembly should be
done with 5200 as a sealant and 10 x 24 or 32 SS machine screws. It takes
two people, one inside the boat to hold and tighten the bolts and the other
on the outside to hold the screws. The screws should be flat head (either
phillips, square heads or slotted) and counter sunk slightly. I used
phillips each time I have done this. Use clamps to hold the deck and hull
together while installing the screws, start at one end and work your way
along. Once the hull,deck joint is bolted back together, re-install the teak
toe rail. I would use 5200 as a bedding compound for the toe rail, but don't
expect to take it off again in one piece. In my personal opinion, any boat
of this vintage should be re-fitted bow-to-stern on both starboard and port
sides. You wonder where those leaks are in your boat - this is a very likely
culprit. Once you have completed this project, you will be comforted in
knowing that your boat is now stronger that ever. Estimate time - 1
day.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; COLOR: black; FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>From:</B>
John Birch</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, November 16, 2002
1:42 AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> Alberg 30 public list</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Alberg30] Help- Tin
Canning Bow</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial>So the sheer clamp has failed - that explains your
oil canning - there was no top plate (formed by the deck
connection) to prevent it. </FONT><FONT face=Arial>Has the hull
delaminated as well or are the glass layers solidly bound to each other in
the vertical plain?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>John</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A href="mailto:RReitz6289@aol.com"
title=RReitz6289@aol.com>RReitz6289@aol.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
href="mailto:Public-list@alberg30.org"
title=Public-list@alberg30.org>Public-list@alberg30.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, November 14, 2002
8:18 PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [Alberg30] Help- Tin
Canning Bow</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=arial,helvetica><FONT face=Arial lang=0
FAMILY="SANSSERIF">While placing my Friend " Dances With Waves " #457,
on the hard for the winter. The yard master discovered, and I conformed,
that the forward part of the port bow is seperating from the deck. The
toe rail is about 1/2 to 3/4 inches above the deck. The area had been
filled with caulk which is now drying and falling out. I can oil can the
top section of the hull about 1/4 inch, for a distance of from 6 inches
aft of the bow for a distance of about 30 to 36 inches. To eliminate the
possibility of water entering between the toe rail and the hull, and
possibly freezing over the winter, I have covered the area with plastic
and duct tape<BR>My thoughts are that I will have to remove the toe
rail, scrape away all caulking, press the hull against the inner hull
and fasten it to the deck in some manner, probably screwing, then
covering the area with fibreglas and epoxy, finishing the job by
reseating the toe rail.<BR><BR>Has anyone had a similar problem? How did
they ahndle it ? What does the group feel about my solution? Can
anyone think of problems I might encounter? I am wide open to
suggestions.<BR><BR>Thank you,<BR>Ralph Reitz<BR>Dances With Waves
#457<BR>Sea Bright New Jersey</FONT><FONT color=#000000 face=arial
lang=0 size=3 style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" FAMILY="SANSSERIF">
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