[alberg30] Re: New Forhatch

[jsss at net1plus.com]

From: jsss at net1plus.com

>From: <FINNUS505 at aol.com>
>
>Hi Stephen,
>
>I wanted to go for an old fashioned look at the forhatch, so I opted for the
>10 inch round dead light. Still get a lot of light down below, but hatch looks
>it came from one of the '30's sailing auxiliaries I learned to sail on; a 1939
>S&S 35' Weekender, or a 1938 Rhodes Bounty, or a 1913 Owen 55' "P" Class
>sloop. Couldn't help myself. Dont worry, I'm not converting to deadeyes and
>lanyards, or mounting oil burning P&S lights on the shrouds!
>
>Glad your design works for you!
>Also glad to hear she balances. Had an Islander 32 once that had the worst
>weather helm I'd seen. mast step could not be moved forward, and raking the
>mast forward within reason had little effect. If I wanted her to self steer
>with a lashed helm, I had to let the main luff, significantly, with the helm
>still pulled way up to windward.
>
>There is some play in the tiller gooseneck, and I have not gotten to exploring
>it yet. I hope it is not a significant problem. Stargazer has the older setup;
>a fiberglass tube between the bottom of the boat and the cockpit sole, so at
>least I dont have to worrry about a steeenking stuffing box. (we dont need no
>steeeeeenking stuffing boxs!)
>
>Finished wiring the mast today. New wires for mast head, steaming, and coax
>for VHF antenna. Ran all three inside airconditioning insulation hose, to
>deaden the banging sound while I'm trying to sleep, and protect the wires from
>chafe against the myriads of sharp fastenings that protrude into the mast.
>Bought 6' lengths of the stuff from Home Depot for 99 cents each. Passed three
>up from the bottom of the mast, around the two wires and the antenna, and
>passed the other three down, through the mainhalyard sheave slot, around the
>masthead light wire and the antenna. I taped the joints together with duct
>tape, just in case I ever want to pull the hose out for some reason. After the
>hose was all in place, I lead the wires through their approprite holes in the
>mast and attached butt connectors to the light wires, and coax adaptors to the
>antenna wire. We'll see how it works.
>
>Had a devil of a time soldering the coax adaptors. The power in the yard is
>far from my boat, and the amp and voltage drop over the long extension cord
>yeilded just barely enough heat to melt the solder. Had to wait for the
>slightest breath of wind to stop! Very frustrating, but I got it done.
>
>
>Bes of Luck!
>
>Lee Trachtenberg
>
>Stargazer #255
>
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Lee,

I have been reading a number of e-mails concerning the removal of your
rudder to remove the 3 blade prop. I removed the rudder on #114 which
turned out to be a BIG mistake. Upon removal the gudgeons were work
hardened and broke in my hands. This lead to a search for new gudgeons
which are not commerically available for the Alberg 30. I found that the
gudgeon from the Pacific Seacraft 25 fits with modifications to the rudder
and reworking the gudgeons somewhat. The bottom line is that the gudgeons
that I used were extremely heavy and exceeded the spec that Whitby used in
the original fabrication of their gudgeons. I also replaced the pin in the
rudder stock that holds that stock centered in the rudder shoe. I machined
a 1/2" piece of bronze to 3/8" leaving a enough meat on the rudder stock
with the pin entering the shoe at 1/2" in diameter. I tapped the rudder and
screwed the new pin into the rudder stock. The new bushing in the cockpit,
new gudgeons and pin the steering tight. These tips may help if you remove
the rudder and encounter the same issues I ran into.   I would recommend
removing the engine before I remove the rudder (you say what, remove the
engine). I removed the 13 hp Yanmar from #114 in less than 1 hour. I made
an insert from 3/4" plywood placed it under the engine, using my 2 ton
floor jack, jacked the motor off the mounts and wheeled it into the cabin.
Following the removal of the engine, the seacock, thru hulls stern tube and
cutlass bearing  were replaced (easy job when the engine isn't in the way.
Installation was the reverse, wheel the motor back into the spot and lower
it on the mounts.

Ironcially, we were discussing the possibility of removing the 2 blade and
replacing it with a 3 blade for increased performance at low r.p.m. After
reading the e-mails, I do not want to remove the motor or rudder again. I
think I will leave the situation as it is and enjoy the boat.

Good Luck,

Stephen Sousa
#114
Carina Vela




               ********************************************

                                       The Sousa's
                                   #114 Carina Vela
                                   jsss at net1plus.com
                         http://www.net1plus.com/users/jsss
                ********************************************



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