[alberg30] Re: Mothballing an Alberg 30

[RABBIT649 at aol.com]

From: RABBIT649 at aol.com

Thanks for your obviously experienced advice. I have a system that, If I would
implement it fully, would work.
I built a frame from electrical conduit with Key Klamps and I shrink wrap over
it. Bought my own gun and it withstands everything.
I drilled an 1-1/4" hole in the heel of the boat and installed a "land drain",
which, after I dry out the obvious water, I plug up and put a small amount of
alchohol in the low point of the bilge (under the engine). Alchohol is
hydroscopic, as you know, and will suck up any free water and then eveaporate
away. Unlike Acetone, it will not hurt the GRP.
 
In a message dated 11/17/98 1:57:13 AM, you wrote:

>From: FINNUS505 at aol.com
>
>Hi Paul,
>I can completely commisurate with you as far as not being able to use the
boat
>you love. For my own health reasons, Stargazer is under tarps, and it kills
>me.
>The most important factor is keeping the fresh water off and out of the boat.
>Stargazer's mast is out, and I have her completely covered with  tarps.  I
>didn't want the windage of a frame, so with just 4 2x4's spanning the
cockpit,
>running for and aft, I just layed the tarps on deck and over the cabin top.
>Even without a frame, the shape of our boats leads to very few puddles in the
>tarp. The lifeline stantions are out so the tarp just falls over the
topsides.
>There is a bit of deck exposed by the pulpits.  With some plastic sheeting
and
>packing tape, you  could probably seal off these areas too. Using  2 20x20
>tarps and overlapping them, you can get good coverage.  Use good nylon line
to
>tie down the tarps. Check the grommets on the tarp before you put it up on
the
>boat; lots of those cheap grommets may be loose, and need a hit with a
hammer.
>As for the areas of rot you know about, if they are not near structural
>points, like the chainplates, then you can get away with a penetrating epoxy
>like GitRot.  If the soft wood is in a critical spot, then of course, it has
>to be replaced.  Thickened epoxy can make up for less than perfect carpentry
>when replacing the wood.
>During this time that you cant work on the boat seriously, if you could just
>remove the fittings on deck that are leaking, then the deck will have a
chance
>to dry out at those points. If you could stay on board for a few hours here
>and there and point a heat lamp at these spots, then they will dry out much
>faster. But dont leave heat lamps unattended on your beautiful boat.
>My  boats up north, so I drained every last drop out of the sump that I
could,
>and poured 2 gallons of non-toxic antifreeze in the bilge, just in case some
>water does trickle in.
>I  also taped over the 2 chrome vents on the aft deck. If the wind blows from
>that direction in the rain, alot of water gets down through them.
>It's depressing, Paul, for sure. Let's hope wer'e both sailing soon!!!!!!!
>Lee Trachtenberg
>Stargazer #255

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