[alberg30] Re: DECK SPRING

RABBIT649 at aol.com RABBIT649 at aol.com
Fri Oct 23 05:26:39 PDT 1998


From: RABBIT649 at aol.com

I have seen descriptions of how to fix the core from below in order to
preserve the original deck non-skid. I f you can get access to the underside
of the springy spot, you cut away the underside and scrape/ grind/ whatever,
the core out from below without cutting thru the top layer of Fiberglass and
gelcoat. Then you glass in a pice of plywood the thickness of the core and
relaminate the underside of the patch. Sounds great until you start working
overhead in GRP. It's a horror.
Paul
In a message dated 10/22/98 7:23:40 PM, you wrote:

>From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at min.net>
>
>Greg,
>
>I think that injecting resin has not given you a good bond.  To achieve
>stiffness, both the upper and lower laminates have to be well bonded to
>the core.  This should be a continuous bond.  I'm of the opinion that
>injecting resin rarely works.
>
>My solution (in progress) is to recore areas that are delaminated.  I
>grind off the top laminate.  If the core is wet, I chisel it out and
>replace it with plastic foam core.  Then I layup new glass on top.
>This has to be faired, painted and, in appropriate areas, covered with
>non-skid.
>
> - George
>
>
>> greg vandenberg said:
>> 
>> From: greg vandenberg <fashionguy at ameritech.net>
>> 
>> ANYBODY OUT THERE GOT AN IDEA ON HOW TO STIFFEN THE A30 FORE DECK AND THE
>> CABIN TOP? AFTER DRYING, INJECTING, PRIMING, PAINTING AND NONSKID. I HAVE
>> HAIRLINE CRACKS AROUND THE CABIN SIDES TO FOR DECK AND AT THE MAIN HATCH
>> OPENING. I TRY TO STEP LIGHTLY ON THE FORE DECK AND CABIN TOP BUT TO NO
AVAIL.....
>
>-- 

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