[alberg30] Re: cutlass bearing/engine saga

[Charles Haggart]

From: "Charles Haggart" <chaggart at sympatico.ca>

Catherine:

I have copied a message that appeared in this conference Aug 8 from Dick
Filinich who repowered with a "Kubota".

In my Alberg 30 #150 I have a Grey Marine. It was rebuilt just before I
bought it, so it should be good for years. If, on the other hand, the engine
was in need of serious repair I would have opted for a new diesel. They are
safer, lighter and the best way to go if you have to spend the money anyway.
Lets face it what is a few thousand dollars more if it buys you a modern
power plant.

Charles

Dear George:This is for those people interested in diesel conversion on
your inquire.First of all I priced every single engine manufacturer in
the world I think,and the best engine for the money with a 2000 hr.2
yr.warranty was the Kubota diesel.P3-20-sm.This is a 3 cylinder fresh
water heat exchanger with direct drive raw water cooled,20
hp at 3600rpm.This engine weight is 214 lbs thats 104 lbs less than the
atomic 4 at roughly 8#per gallon thats extra fuel tank in sail locker.
It came with a hurth trans 2.05:1 which turns left hand.I contacted
dist.in florida and was told that this clutch would turn either
direction without any problem.My next haul out I plan to change to a
larger left hand wheel,but in the main time I am still using a 12x6 two
blade sail prop.I cruise @2000rpm and according to my gps around 6 kts.@
2200 rpm I bury the exhaust under water.Now In Louisiana this engine
with taxes would have cost me $6000,but I went out of state to Miss.and
picked up my engine for a total of $5395 complete with deluxe panel,no
taxes with a savings of $500+.I used the same 7/8" shaft,I had to buy
new coupling of the shelf blank and have it turned down to fit shaft,$39
My boat came with a plastic outboard gas thank for the atomic 4,this was
a source of problems.The new diesel had to suck fuel up then out of this
tank,and had no baffles in it,in rough water the diesel would get air
bound,a new aluminum tank with baffles(seperations)in it to keep fuel
from sloshing around,fuel outlet on bottom to racor filter,magic problem
solved.Oh raw water pump in in front of engine for easy access.New tank
cost $100 for welder and just a few dollars for 1/8"metal and
fittings.tank dimensions are 13 1/2 w x7"d 43"L to replace 12 gallon
plastic tank in stbd.locker.Tank needs fuel outlet on side near
bottom,fuel fill on top,fuel return on top and vent fitting.I am a
welder by trade and I made the new engine bed myself with 3"x1/4" steel
flat bar.This took some time because I did no hot work in boat.I won't
go into details on the engine bed now,but I'm sure there must be trade
schools in your area or a friend of a friend to help with the engine
bed,this is easy welding even for a beginner.Before I converted to
diesel I had installed a bomar hatch in cockpit sole to access rear of
engine and stuffing box,this was a plus to installing new engine,you'll
need help two people once the engine is on bed,one person inside boat to
move engine and one in cockpit with feeler gauge to line up coupling.Two
of my sons and myself carried engine to boat with length of pipe and
chain to engine pad eyes and lowered engine in boat.I'm sorry for this
lenghty e-mail if I can find someone with scanner I'll send photos of
before and after installation,and drawings of engine bed,or if any of
you with scanner would forward your mailing address I'd be glad to mail
more details.Don"t let this conversion scare you,it can be done for much
less then $10,000,mines cost about 5800.Oh I almost forgot I ran @ 2000
rpm for app.10 hrs and burned 4 1/2 gallons of fuel.so if your in it for
the long haul then your fuel savings of diesel versus gas and peace of
mind will at least pay for half that conversion.

Again sorry for this out of breath e-mail
Dick Fillinich Galliano,La.  "High Spirits"#191.


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