[alberg30] Re: Upgrading my Alberg30

[Shawn Orr]

From: "Shawn Orr" <shawnwilliam at email.msn.com>

Lee,

Thank you for your advice.  Your questions/answers were right on the money.
 

The electrical system is a mess.  Do you remember what the cost was to
rewire?  Do you have any diagrams?

Thanks,

Shawn Orr

----------
> From: FINNUS505 at aol.com
> To: alberg30 at onelist.com
> Subject: [alberg30] Re: Upgrading my Alberg30
> Date: Thursday, March 18, 1999 3:16 PM
> 
> From: FINNUS505 at aol.com
> 
> Hi Shawn,
>   Oh, are you in for some fun!!  many of theprojects you mention are just
what
> we have done to our own#255, Stargazer, over the past year or so. But at
least
> you won't have to replace the through hull, gas tank, and head as we did!
>   First question involves the genny tracks.  Ours are stainless steel
plates,
> laid on a narrower batten of wood.  On Stargazer, the wood was completely
> rotted on the working jib tracks, and in bad shape on the genny tracks,
and
> was gone on the gooseneck track as well, which is constructed the same
way.
> Is this your problem?  Rather than replace the tracks, we removed them
and cut
> new teak battens, setting everything in 3M 5200.  Would this work for
you?
> After we had completed the job, someone here suggested that delrin would
be
> even better than teak, and I agree. But I'm not redoing it now!!
>    Second, Stargazer came to us with alot of original running rigging. I
> wouldnt be surprised if some of the three strand halyards were from 1967!
 We
> dont race, so the double braid polyester StaySet seemed adequate.
>   Third, she had the original 'v' mainsheet arrangement, no traveler,
with the
> original resin blocks.  We removed it all, and the winch, and replaced it
with
> a Harken system.  the mid-size traveler and cars, and the fiddle block,
cam
> cleat system.  We debated going to the trouble of cutting a piece of teak
to
> match the crown of the deck, so the track would be straight in a
horizontal
> direction.  the advantage of that is when you drop the traveler to
leeward in
> a puff, you are not tightening the sheet by the height of the crown. Too
much
> work though.  We just bolted the traveler directly to the deck, bedding
in
> 5200, with 1/4" SS bolts.  Make sure you buy bolts that are long enough;
the
> deck is thicker than you might think!
>   As for blocks for the genny sheets and the forsail halyards, the
standard
> Schaefer or Ronstan will do fine.
>   What type of varnish to use is a big, big question. Ask 10 people,
you'll
> get twenty answers! I had to rebuild or replace all of my hatches, so
once I
> was down to new or newly sanded wood, I opted to put 6 coats of Z-Spar
> Captains varnish on.  I've had good experience with it in the past,
interms of
> toughness and longevity, and the hatches glow now.   If you are starting
with
> wood that is not perfect, and your not looking for a total refinish job,
then
> adequate sanding, and 3 or 4 coats of the Cetol Sikkens, or Armada seems
to be
> very popular now.  I used the Sikkens on another boat and after doing all
the
> prep work 'right' in the spring, I found I still had to recoat midseason,
> which I was very dissapointed at. Maybe there was some oil left in the
wood
> that prevented good adhesion.  Other people love the stuff. I find that
all
> the other teak oil products oxidize and blacken in no time, and have to
be
> redone periodicaly during the season.  The Sikkens and Armada do not turn
> black, so once you are down to clean wood, it is worth the extra trouble
> initialy to put them on.  Even if you have to recoat midseason, at least
you
> don't have to sand down to clean, bright wood, just rough up the original
> surface with scotch brite pads.
>   How is the electrical system? If its good, great. Ours was a tangle of
two
> or three generations of wiring many wires dead at both ends!  We pulled
it all
> out, and rewired with 14 gauge Ancor duplex saftey wire.  We kept the
original
> switch panel for now, but had all the common wires, such as cabin 
lights, or
> nav lights, or instruments, go to their own bus bars, and then a single
lead
> to the switch. Alot neater and easily serviced than what we had! (Thanks
> again, for showing us how to do it, Bob!!!!)
>   So what are you doing just sitting around Shawn?  Go get started!!!!:)
>   Have fun,
>   Lee Trachtenberg
>   Stargazer #255
> 
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