[alberg30] 2 cents more on: slab reefing

FINNUS505 at aol.com FINNUS505 at aol.com
Mon Nov 1 09:14:41 PST 1999


From: FINNUS505 at aol.com

Hey Russ,

Found the hard way that if the leach reefing line is made fast to a cleat on 
the mast, rather than on the boom, the tension in the line changes as the 
boom swings: tightens as the boom swings away from the cleat, loosens as it 
swings towards the cleat.  Reeks havoc on the foot tension and subsequent 
sail shape.  Best to have the cleat on the stbd. side of the boom, which is 
the side the main halyard is on the mast, and as far forward as you can 
attach it.  Best to tap a thread into the boom and use bolts, vs. trying to 
get away with self tapping sheet metal screws.

If you want the lines to lead aft to the cockpit, attach the turning blocks 
to the for end of the boom, for the same reason.

As far as the attachment of leach lines, there are several ways to do this;

set main on boom, and attachthe reef's luff cringle to tack hook, then pull 
the foot of the reef back tight, to see where the leach cringle falls on the 
boom.

A) fasten a cheek block on an 18" track on the stbd side of the boom. The 
leach line will then dead end on a post on the cheek block, run under the 
boom, then through the reef cringle,then back to the sheave, then forward to 
the cleat through one or two fairleads.

B)attach a track to the port side of the boom, with a simple genny car on it. 
 Attach a block at the aft end of the boom.  reefing line then dead ends on 
car, runs up through cringle,aft to block, then forward to cleat through 
fairleads.

C) measure position of leach cringle very carefully, then mount padeye on 
port side of boom 12" aft.  Run leach line as for B.

D) use rolling hitch with at least 3 extra turns in place of pad eye.

B is my choice.
Hope this helps,
Lee
Stargazer #255

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