[alberg30] Re: Mast Step Removal

[alberg30]

From: "alberg30" <alberg30 at interactive.net>

Guy: Sorry its taken so long to get back to you. A couple of thoughts on
the mast-step repair.

1) When I removed my mast-step plate, the whole plate and screws corroded
in place came out of the deck with some prying. I tried unsuccessfully for
some time to unscrew the bolts that went into the deck, but they wouldn't
budge. Thus the whole thing eventually came out. I have tried to get the
bolts out of the plate after the fact, but haven't been able to. I read in
one Maintenance Manual article where a guy drilled them out then retapped
the plate.

2) The mast-step doesn't bolt or screw into anything other than the deck,
which is basically fiberglass and the core. It doesn't even through bolt
through the deck. I asked this question once before, and everyone seems to
agree that the bolts in the mast-step plate are really just "feet" meant to
keep the mast from "walking" away. I don't really like this idea, but
perhaps this is what has allowed A30's to be demasted (like Yves Gelinas
#399 "Jean de Sud") and not have damage to the coach roof. If you were to
through bolt the mast-step, upon demasting, would you have the coachroof
ripped open? Does it matter? 

There is,however, an article in the Maintenance Manual where a guy retapped
the mast-plate, and then also embedded nuts into the fiberglass deck, to
which he screwed the new bolts into it. Interesting idea, but I can only
imagine trying to get things to line up--while being gummed up with resin.
Not to mention you have to drill out your corroded bolts in the first
place. If you were to embedd the nuts, I wonder what added strength you'd
get--what kind of bond is there on the resin/fiberglass that would hold
some 1/2" bolts? Seems like not much.

Seems like, the bolts are there just to keep the mast-step from sliding
around. So--for now-- I plan to just drill some pilot holes in the new
deck, fill with resin, and stick the whole plate, stuck bolts and all, back
in place. I think later I may explore the through bolt idea. I just
hesitate to try and drill out the bolts.

On things not to do:

1) If you're doing the top down repair, consider making your repair area as
small as possible. This will keep as much of the outer skin in tact as
possible and make your cosmetics that much easier later on. Take the time
to tape and mask all surrounding areas. I mean everything near by. I made a
mess everywhere. The only thing more messy than resin is 3M5200. If you do
make a mess, 60 grit sandpaper on an orbital sander with clean it up,
although forget about the gelcoat.

However, I would really caution making the repair area too small. While the
actual damaged core area on my boat was maybe 8" x 12", I went overboard
and cleared an area 2x2'. Way too much. But 8" x12" is also too small.
You're trying to strengthen the whole area remember. So route clear into
some solid core and establish a broad repair base.

2) For coring material, use that stuff George Dinwiddie recommended,
Kleg-cell fiber mat foam from a company called Fiberglass Coatings, Inc
1-813-327-8117, website www.fgci.com . The stuff is not that expensive, and
although I didn't use it, I wish I had. I used pieces of oak wood, because
I am a cheap bastard and a dumbass. The problem with hard wood is that you
have to make the pieces small enough to get the camber of the deck right. 
Then your mast-step area requires all this work to make it smooth and level
and in camber. Thats what I'm working on now. Pain in the butt.My
impression of the foam is it can be bent, and then it absorbs the resin
making it strong stuff after set-up.

3) This project is fairly complex, so allow enough time. As usual I
underestimated the time it would take. I expected it to get done in a few
weekends--I am now on my ninth month. It takes time to do it right I think.
And you want to consider some kind of covering, like a small awning to
allow you to work throughout the day, in light rain, maybe direct sunlight
whatever. The weather has been my greatest enemy.

4) To route out the glass and core, use a router with a Carbon steel bit.
These are the monster looking router bits at Home Depot, mine are
industrial yellow. Don't even waste your time trying to use Black n' Decker
regular router bits they'll go dull in the first ten minutes and start
smoking. (It took me three standard bits--before I asked someone at Home
Depot what the hell my problem was. Spend the money up front and buy the
heavy duty flavor.)

On another note, don't use a flat bladed screw driver to try and chisel/pry
out pieces of glass or core. Use a extra wide wood chisel, please!! I
punched a hole through my liner using a screw driver. The chisel was like
magic--once I pulled my head out my ass.

5. Don't use just resin and coring material for the repair. You need a
filler mixed with the resin to beef it up. Otherwise you'll go through a
gallon on resin before you know it. Mix it up with the heaviest filler
adhesive you can find.

6. You really need a consensus of information--like from the Maintenance
Manual to develop your strategy. If you dont have the articles let me know
and I will get you copies of what I have. 


Hope that helps. As I think of more things, I let you know. Because of my
dumb decisions, my pervasive cheapness, and my ridiculous hurry, I am now
fixing my mistakes from earlier this year. Namely the cosmetics.

PS-let me know your thoughts on the through-bolt idea for the mast plate.

Best of luck,

Joe #499
"One Less Traveled"

----------
From: Guy Lalonde <lalondegc at videotron.ca>
To: Joe Tokarz <alberg30 at interactive.net>
Subject: Mast Step Removal
Date: Saturday, November 13, 1999 10:07 AM

Hi Joe,

I tried removing the mast step plate on the deck today. It was held down by
6 screws which came out no problem. However the plate won't budge. How did
you get your plate off ?


Regards,

Guy.
Cyrena #466

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