[alberg30] Permanent Moorings

[Bob Johns]

Hi Lee and group,

>use a good 5/16's double braid line like sta set as your saftey
>line,  tie it to the bowline eye, and then after the mooring eye is passed
>over the aft horn of the cleat, secure the saftey line with figure 8's across
>the horns, and turns around the outside of the eye, on the forward horn and
>aft horn, with these turns going athwartships, to make sure the mooring eye
>doesn't work itself off with the natural motion of the boat.  I've seen it
>happen-don't take any chances!!

My mooring has a pickup buoy spliced to one of the pennants. I made the
line on the pickup buoy long enough so that I can secure the pennant as you
describe, and also secure the second pennant with the same line. The
portion of line crossing from cleat to cleat over the pennants also adds a
little extra security.

>If the shackle that is attached to the mushroom is badly rusted and worn,
>then I wouldn't trust the swivel, either. I even wonder how they can be
>strong enough when brand new, if you look at the actual amount of metal that
>holds the bolt and nut from one piece in place through the hole in the second
>piece!! But obviously, if you use a new mooring chain swivel of the proper
>size, and replace them when they start to wear, you will be fine.

The  Northport Harbor Advisory Board requirements that I summarized in a
previous posting recommends that the swivel be a size larger than the
largest of the chains. This means that if the larger (lower) chain is 1/2
inch, as recommended for an Alberg 30, then the swivel should be 5/8 inch.
They also state that the swivel must be of the eye to eye type rather than
the eye to jaw type. They say that while a swivel may assist in limiting
twist it, often is the first part of a mooring to fail.

Hope this is helpful,

Bob Johns
Wind Call #397



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