[alberg30] multimeter

[Alan P. Kefauver]

From: "Alan P. Kefauver" <apk2 at home.com>

Sailboat Electrics Simplified by Don Casey
The International Marine Sailboat Library
International marine ( a McGraw Hill Company)
ISBN#0-07-036649-7

I think I got it from Amazon or Barnes on Noble on the Web. Search them.

Just finished building all new harches (seats, lazarette, companion wayboards (with slated ventilation), main hatch and fore hatch). Put solar powered vents in the lazarette and fore hatch. Teak can be had for as low as $16/board foot. Ask for three-quarters  (which is really 5/8"). For the companionway boards, I build the frame with square joints set with biscuits, the center was veneered 1/4" Marine Ply (cheaper). Slats were made from the scrap from the frame. Dado a 3/8' slot at a 45 degree angle on both sides of the top board and set the slats in the grooves. I then coated it with 2 coats of west clear epoxy and 2 coats of Waterlox Marine finish (for UV protection).
If you have any further technical Woodworking questions, write me privately.
The very best tool I purchased for electrical work is a multimeter with an amp-clamp that reads DC! Hard to find but.....  (Fluke 36). You can actually read the current flow in the cable to see where it stops. Use tinned stranded copper wire, with tinned lugs. Andante's former owner used 16gauge zip cord and standard crimp lugs. When I got the boat nothing worked and all the wiring was corroded at the ends, and brittle in the middle. I am still dealing with that.

Alan
Andante Hull #152

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********

On 3/13/2000 at 2:25 AM Bill Ydel wrote:

>From: "Bill Ydel" <bydel at aol.com>
>
>One of the items I have purchased for SallyB #441 is a multimeter.Can
>anyone point me to a source on the web that I can study on the basics
>of electricity and how to use the Multimeter in troubleshooting the
>wiring.
>I need to replace the hatch boards and find an attractive way to lock
>the boat. Could the group give me some input on both subjects. I have
>called the local hardwood center and am told that they have teak 1"
>by 12" for $20 per board/foot. I can get that, have it planed dwn to
>5/8" and fabricate the boards myself. But is that the best way to
>go?? 
>
>
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