[Alberg30] toerails and bulkhead

[C.B. Currier]

toerails and bulkheadThis situation is like an Alberg I just purchased in
Baltimore. #458.  She too has substantial leaks but little around the 'Toe
Rail'. Any leaking into that wall between the 'Saloon' or main cabin and the
head must be coming from somewhere above that in the upper deck. therefore
you are probably looking at a deck fitting that may need to be rebedded.
Check the Hand Rails or to deck vent above the head for leaks. That
'bulkhead' is infact only a wall screwed into the hull and cabin sole.  No
substantial load bearing members there. THerfore if you wish to work on it
you might pull it out and begin your search for leaks there in the deck.

Rail replacement, to answer your question should be done either with 5200 or
west systems, or my preference, MAAS epoxy. I suggest MAAS due to the
quality of the bond. Not too hard er brittle like west systems but still
very strong. Close the hole with epoxy, then use 5200 when rebeding the
fittings into the epoxy. This gives a strong hold, a sealed hold and one
that can be unscrewed in the future. Always repair the fiberglass first for
any leaks and strength. Then rebed.

By the way what # is your boat?

C.B. Currier
Infinity #57
CBC at spinrx.com
  -----Original Message-----
  From: public-list-admin at alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-admin at alberg30.org]On Behalf Of Wrightson, Charles
  Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 2:55 PM
  To: 'public-list at alberg30.org'
  Subject: [Alberg30] toerails and bulkhead


  I just bought an A-30 and have two problems. The toerail is in pretty bad
shape and as a result there is substancial leaking into the saloon. I am
thinking about a repair (rebedding it) or replacement. I am looking for
someone who could do millwork (of a toerail) without letting the boatyard
handle the whole project.If I chose to rebed it, does anyone have
suggestions on making it watertight (Is it as easy as 5200 and tighter
bolts?

  the second problem is the port bulkhead (between the salon and the head
has some rot because of the leaking). It seems to comprise 6 to 8 inches
from the outside edge inward. Is there a way to make an effective repair
without replacing the whole wall, which involves dissassembling everything
around it etc.

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