[Alberg30] under sole holding tank
Jacques Dusseault
dussual at attglobal.net
Sun Nov 25 23:20:55 PST 2001
Dear Peter,
I repaired my holding tank cover this year. I had done a quick job a
few years ago, but it became necessary to make a complete repair
this summer. For the hose ends, I replaced the aluminum pipes
going into the tank with 1 1/2" PVC. The original pipes were severly
corroded. I strenghtened the angled front of the tank where the
pipes come out with a piece of plywood and inserted the new PVC
pipes. I then glued and covered the plywood, pipes and front
aluminum piece with epoxy and cloth. I made sure that the entry
point of the new pipes were perfectly sealed using epoxy resin with
a filler. In the 1 1/2 " pipes I inserted and epoxied 1 1/4" plastic
nipples and reconnected the existing rubber hoses. The 1 1/4"
threaded nipple ends can be perfectly fitted, with expoxy glue, inside
the 1 1/2 " pipes. I also replaced the airventing tube with a small
PVC pipe and reconnected it to the existing vent piping. This may
be all the repair you need at this time.
In my case the aluminum cover was severely pitted with a few small
holes and also needed repair. It was also leaking around the riveted
sides. To correct this problem I took the entire aluminum top off by
drilling out the rivets. I then covered both sides of the existing cover
with epoxy resin and cloth. I cut a 12" X 14" square trap door in the
cover, inorder to have access to the pipes. I built an inside
aluminum frame for the trap door cover to sit on, fiberglassed it,
bolted and caulked the cover down. I have a round plexiglass view
port which is bolted down using bolts with threads in the aluminum
cover. Through this observation port I could easily insert my hand
and wrench and bolt down the access trap door cover. I then
epoxied the entire holding tank cover down, around the lip of the
tank rather than use rivets. I cleaned the fiberglass rim thoroughly,
filled the existing rivet holes and gave it a sanding. To make sure of
a tight fit for the epoxied top to the fiberglass rim, I added a filler to
the epoxy and also screwed the top down with stainless screws
using new holes I drilled between the existing rivited holes in the tank
lip. I then painted the top with aluminum gray paint. In my earlier
quick repair I had re-rivited and caulked the top. It lasted a few
years but started to leak again. The new repair is very strong and I
am sure it will hold, without leaking, for another 30 years.
I made one other modification. I put a joint in the "pump out" pipe
so that if I wish I can disconnect it and remove it from inside the
tank through the removable cover. We presently sail on the St.
Laurence and Great Lakes and require a holding tank. We have
previously taken Kilwinning to the Bahamas where we could not use
the holding tank but had to pump out directly to the sea. We intend
to take another sea voyage, in the next few years, and will
supplement our water storage by using the the cleaned out holding
tank area for the addition an extra flexible water tank. I can insert
the flexible water tank through the removable cover. I fiberglassed
some holding points to the bottom of the tank so that the flexible tank
can be held in place when installed. This will keep the extra weight
of the water low in the boat and help the boats performance.
If you wish more complete and exact material and design
specifications or other info, I would be pleased to provide it. I hope
you can understand my above description. The job was not difficult
or expensive and looks very good.
Kilwinning #446 (1970)
On 25 Nov 2001, at 22:06, Peter Amos wrote:
> The aluminium top of my under sole holding tank is begining to look
> very weak at the hoses connection points.Has anyone replaced or
> repaired this tank without re-siting it. Peter Amos Tait Tait #478
>
Jacques Dusseault
President, Synergem Management Inc.
2 de Menton, Gatineau, Québec,
J8T 5M6 CANADA
Phone:(819)561-1268
Cellular: (613) 220-2230
Fax:(819) 561-2361
Email: dussual at attglobal.net
Web Page: http://www.synergem.org
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