[Alberg30] Replace teak toerail/caprail with aluminum perforated web rail

[Mike Lehman]

Mike, I have replace the toe rail on my boat for similar reasons, but did so 
with teak instead of aluminum rail to keep the boat looking as traditional 
as possible. The teak is attached with wood screws and the hull/deck joint 
is pop-riveted with aluminum rivets which should be replaced on all the 
boats of this vintage (my opinion). Since replacing the rivets with thru 
bolts the boat is stiffer and the leaks from that joint have dissappeared. I 
found that many of the rivets had turned to white powder and were not 
holding anything if impacted. Remove a few of the rivets at a time, pry open 
the joint and fill with 3M5200 before thru bolting. I used 10x24 machine 
screws about ?? long and washers and standard nuts on the inside, since the 
5200 on the threads acted like lock tight.

Mike Lehman
"Gilleleje" #505
(410) 544-9067



----Original Message Follows----
From: MikeKysela at aol.com
Reply-To: public-list at alberg30.org
To: public-list at alberg30.org
Subject: [Alberg30] Replace teak toerail/caprail with aluminum perforated 
web rail
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 12:40:56 EDT


The teak toerail/caprail on my A-30 has worn considerably and has been 
sanded
by previous owners to the extent that screw heads are exposed. I would like
to replace this rail with an aluminum perforated web rail and in the process
thru bolt the rail. This procedure was recently described in the September
issue of Cruising World, by a Richard Levy who refit his 1966 Buchan 37 with
this type of rail. Does anyone have experience with this teak rail problem
and the aluminum rail solution?? Thanks for any recommendations!

Mike Kysela
Talisman 1970 / #432
(216) 561-5098


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