[Alberg30] Replace teak toerail/caprail with aluminum perforated web rail

[Mike Lehman]

Remember the boats changed, as did the toe rail in the early 70's. The newer 
style does not have a stainless trim piece, the deck drains are inboard, and 
the shape and size of the rail is quite a bit different. Also, on the older 
style boats, the deck.hull joint was thru bolted, whereas on the newer style 
Whitby discovered new technology - "The Pop-Rivet Gun". I have spent years, 
literally, drilling out pop-rivets and replacing them with SS thru-bolts.

Mike Lehman
"Gilleleje" #505
(410) 544-9067



----Original Message Follows----
From: "Henry Sharpe" <henry_sharpe at yahoo.com>
Reply-To: public-list at alberg30.org
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Replace teak toerail/caprail with aluminum 
perforated web rail
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 07:59:03 +0700

Another part of that project that I would highly recommend in grinding down
(at the scuppers) the stainless trim strip that covers the joint between the
teak tow rail and the hull.  On my boat, #111, the stainless stood proud and
was backed with old caulking that kept the deck from draining completely.
It had the effect of allowing/forcing water under the teak where it drained
through the bolt holes (I have bolts rather than pop rivets for the
hull/deck joint).  I also rebedded the stainless before replacing it.  The
boat has been watertight for six years since this job which eventually also
included a beveled and bedded teak strip inside the toerail. to seal the
inside edge of the toe rail except at the scuppers.

Henry Sharpe
#111
(Hai Phong, Viet Nam)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Lehman" <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2001 12:09 AM
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Replace teak toerail/caprail with aluminum
perforated web rail


 > Mike, I have replace the toe rail on my boat for similar reasons, but did
so
 > with teak instead of aluminum rail to keep the boat looking as 
traditional
 > as possible. The teak is attached with wood screws and the hull/deck 
joint
 > is pop-riveted with aluminum rivets which should be replaced on all the
 > boats of this vintage (my opinion). Since replacing the rivets with thru
 > bolts the boat is stiffer and the leaks from that joint have 
dissappeared.
I
 > found that many of the rivets had turned to white powder and were not
 > holding anything if impacted. Remove a few of the rivets at a time, pry
open
 > the joint and fill with 3M5200 before thru bolting. I used 10x24 machine
 > screws about ?? long and washers and standard nuts on the inside, since
the
 > 5200 on the threads acted like lock tight.
 >
 > Mike Lehman
 > "Gilleleje" #505
 > (410) 544-9067
 >
 >
 >
 > ----Original Message Follows----
 > From: MikeKysela at aol.com
 > Reply-To: public-list at alberg30.org
 > To: public-list at alberg30.org
 > Subject: [Alberg30] Replace teak toerail/caprail with aluminum perforated
 > web rail
 > Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 12:40:56 EDT
 >
 >
 > The teak toerail/caprail on my A-30 has worn considerably and has been
 > sanded
 > by previous owners to the extent that screw heads are exposed. I would
like
 > to replace this rail with an aluminum perforated web rail and in the
process
 > thru bolt the rail. This procedure was recently described in the 
September
 > issue of Cruising World, by a Richard Levy who refit his 1966 Buchan 37
with
 > this type of rail. Does anyone have experience with this teak rail 
problem
 > and the aluminum rail solution?? Thanks for any recommendations!
 >
 > Mike Kysela
 > Talisman 1970 / #432
 > (216) 561-5098
 >
 >
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