[Alberg30] Replace teak toerail/caprail with aluminum perfora ted web rail

[sousa, stephen]

Mike and Bob,

It would seems that the biggest issue in replacing the toe rail on the older
boats is the scarf joints. Bob, Isobar is the same vintage as Carina Vela
#114. What thickness teak was available from your supplier to meet this
application.

Stephen

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Lehman [mailto:sail_505 at hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2001 8:23 AM
To: public-list at alberg30.org
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Replace teak toerail/caprail with aluminum
perforated web rail


Remember the boats changed, as did the toe rail in the early 70's. The newer

style does not have a stainless trim piece, the deck drains are inboard, and

the shape and size of the rail is quite a bit different. Also, on the older 
style boats, the deck.hull joint was thru bolted, whereas on the newer style

Whitby discovered new technology - "The Pop-Rivet Gun". I have spent years, 
literally, drilling out pop-rivets and replacing them with SS thru-bolts.

Mike Lehman
"Gilleleje" #505
(410) 544-9067



----Original Message Follows----
From: "Henry Sharpe" <henry_sharpe at yahoo.com>
Reply-To: public-list at alberg30.org
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Replace teak toerail/caprail with aluminum 
perforated web rail
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 07:59:03 +0700

Another part of that project that I would highly recommend in grinding down
(at the scuppers) the stainless trim strip that covers the joint between the
teak tow rail and the hull.  On my boat, #111, the stainless stood proud and
was backed with old caulking that kept the deck from draining completely.
It had the effect of allowing/forcing water under the teak where it drained
through the bolt holes (I have bolts rather than pop rivets for the
hull/deck joint).  I also rebedded the stainless before replacing it.  The
boat has been watertight for six years since this job which eventually also
included a beveled and bedded teak strip inside the toerail. to seal the
inside edge of the toe rail except at the scuppers.

Henry Sharpe
#111
(Hai Phong, Viet Nam)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Lehman" <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2001 12:09 AM
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Replace teak toerail/caprail with aluminum
perforated web rail


 > Mike, I have replace the toe rail on my boat for similar reasons, but did
so
 > with teak instead of aluminum rail to keep the boat looking as 
traditional
 > as possible. The teak is attached with wood screws and the hull/deck 
joint
 > is pop-riveted with aluminum rivets which should be replaced on all the
 > boats of this vintage (my opinion). Since replacing the rivets with thru
 > bolts the boat is stiffer and the leaks from that joint have 
dissappeared.
I
 > found that many of the rivets had turned to white powder and were not
 > holding anything if impacted. Remove a few of the rivets at a time, pry
open
 > the joint and fill with 3M5200 before thru bolting. I used 10x24 machine
 > screws about ?? long and washers and standard nuts on the inside, since
the
 > 5200 on the threads acted like lock tight.
 >
 > Mike Lehman
 > "Gilleleje" #505
 > (410) 544-9067
 >
 >
 >
 > ----Original Message Follows----
 > From: MikeKysela at aol.com
 > Reply-To: public-list at alberg30.org
 > To: public-list at alberg30.org
 > Subject: [Alberg30] Replace teak toerail/caprail with aluminum perforated
 > web rail
 > Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 12:40:56 EDT
 >
 >
 > The teak toerail/caprail on my A-30 has worn considerably and has been
 > sanded
 > by previous owners to the extent that screw heads are exposed. I would
like
 > to replace this rail with an aluminum perforated web rail and in the
process
 > thru bolt the rail. This procedure was recently described in the 
September
 > issue of Cruising World, by a Richard Levy who refit his 1966 Buchan 37
with
 > this type of rail. Does anyone have experience with this teak rail 
problem
 > and the aluminum rail solution?? Thanks for any recommendations!
 >
 > Mike Kysela
 > Talisman 1970 / #432
 > (216) 561-5098
 >
 >
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