[Alberg30] Deck Repairs

[Brian and Elaine Timmins]

Bill,
   Drilling into the deck where it is delaminated or the core is rotted is
easy. The top layer of fiberglass is only 1/8 - 3/16" or so. You'll know for
sure after one or two holes. When the drill bit penetrates the skin, you'll
feel the difference because then it's drilling air (or rotted core which
feels like air). The hard part is stopping before you go further. If you're
used to using a drill, it's easy. If you're not, you will be quickly. For
any holes that make it through the lower skin, I recommend using polyester
putty (Bondo or Body fill stuff) to close the hole. It works better than
most tapes.
   I suggest using a 3/16" bit. When you finally get to inject the epoxy,
start at the lowest point and keep injecting until it starts to come out of
other holes. When that happens, put a #10 sheet metal screw (only use brand
new screws) into the hole where the epoxy is coming out, and keep injecting
into that same hole if possible. It's better to fill the voids from the
bottom up. If you use brand new screws to close the holes as they get full,
the oil from manufacturing will prevent the epoxy from bonding to them. If
you use old screws, or heavily handled screws, they may become part of the
deck forever.
   Good luck, it's easier than it sounds.
Brian    #497
----- Original Message -----
From: "Furey, Bill (CORP)" <bill.furey at corporate.ge.com>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2002 11:23 AM
Subject: RE: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs


> Hi Greg: I have an Alberg 35 with some wet areas. two questions:
> 1. how deep for the holes & can you tell readily that you have'nt drilled
> too far?
> 2. How can I get &how much, what brand etc for a moisture meter.
> thks.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: greg [mailto:greg at vandenbergphoto.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 6:03 PM
> To: public-list at alberg30.org
> Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
>
>
> I may regret sticking my nose in here. Having been involved in the repair
of
> such
> things on our 1968 A30 #312. We have replaced our cockpit soul and
repaired
> side
> deck de lamination in areas of the non skid with good result. It is not as
> scary
> as it looks... just time consuming. We did not cut away the wet
de-laminated
> areas  of the deck  ( not true of the cockpit sole) but drilled 1/4 inch
> holes on
> a 1 inch grid over the wet areas and then with lamps dried the areas till
> the
> moisture meter showed an acceptable content. We then injected as much
epoxy
> resin
> as the delaminated area would except and filled and smoothed the area with
> thickened epoxy. Over which we applied a new non skid surface with
mron(sp)
> and
> Awlgrip's silica. We did this on the entire deck  and cockpit. It looked
> great
> when complete. Drying was not a fast process it took days and the project
> took
> alot of time away from sailing.
>
> Kindest Regards- Greg
>
> PS: I'm in west Michigan if you want to talk. 616 454 5225
> PPS: Same for the cockpit sole.
>
> "Paloma L. Hawry" wrote:
>
> >
> > We need to let the owner know soon if we are willing to purchase the
boat
> > and tackle this work.  Our expectation is that we are looking at deck
> > repairs anywhere between $2000 and $7000 range - assuming we do some of
> the
> > work ourselves. (We are handy and willing to do much of the prep and
> > painting/finish work, but haven't got the experience or sufficient time
> for
> > the structural work).  As we are on a very tight budget, we can't afford
> > major surprises beyond that range.
> >
>
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