[Alberg30] Deck Repairs

Mon Feb 4 14:31:45 PST 2002

I had my deck done by a yard, and did not watch the work (it DID take a long
time).  So I can only claim derivative expertise (derived from what the
owner of the yard told me).

But this drilling method sounds like water torture.  Why would you not just
take a small rotary hand saw with an exposed blade (one on an arbor maybe
with a flexible shaft) and just carefully cut out the deck over the soggy
core in straight lines, a rectangle at a time? This surely sounds quicker,
more likely to get all the wet core out and easier to repair and cure to me.

Incidentally, one thing that the yard told me would reduce the spreading of
wayward moisture in the future is to use balsa on-end.  This way the fibers
tend not to draw the water across a wider area through capillary action.  I
suppose that if you use synthetic coring this is not an issue.

But this is indeed an interesting exchange.  Didn't it start with someone
wanting to buy a boat?

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian and Elaine Timmins [mailto:timmins at optonline.net]
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 4:45 PM
To: public-list at alberg30.org
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs

When I did my foredeck, The boat was indoors, but not heated. I would start
up either one or two Origo Alcohol heaters in the V berth area every time I
went to the boat (if it was over 40`, I was there after work, or all day). I
drilled the holes in December and did the epoxy injection by the end of May.
The core was giving me relatively dry samples before I started the
injection. Five or six years later, it's still fine.
Brian   #497
P.S. I like the margerine idea, but can't vouch for it personally.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Berube5" <Berube5 at cox.net>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 3:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs

> Bill,
>
> A word of caution- Pearson used balsa in the construction of their decks.
> From personal experience I can tell you that the "drill and dry" method is
> not a rapid repair- time wise.
>
> Balsa holds moisture tenaciously. I have drilled a pattern of holes into
the
> core in the manner that others have suggested. My boat has been stored
> indoors and heated for over a year. After NINE months of "drying out" I
> could still pull up wet drill cores of balsa after drilling new test
holes.
>
> I used the heat lamp approach- to little effect. You also need to be
careful
> not to overheat the fiberglass- Don Casey says that if it is too hot to
> touch- it is too hot. Obviously, if the boat is outdoors it will not dry
out
> if the decks are frozen.
>
> I don't want to discourage you- but it is important be realistic and
> patient. A job like this should not be rushed. An epoxy repair will not
work
> if the core is still wet.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Dana Berube
> 1960 Pearson Triton (balsa core deck)
>
> On 02/04/2002 13:40, "Furey, Bill (CORP)" <bill.furey at corporate.ge.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Bria & Gord: Thanks-the drying process may be tricky-the boat
> > is uncovered(reason for the problem in the first place)I guess
> > wait for a dry weather pattern, drill holes, & rig lamps?
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Gord Laco [mailto:gord at transatmarine.com]
> > Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 8:32 AM
> > To: public-list at alberg30.org
> > Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> >
> >
> > I've done the same job - I dip the screws in margerine to keep the epoxy
> > from holding them.
> >
> > Gord
> > KC426 Surprise
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Brian and Elaine Timmins <timmins at optonline.net>
> > To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2002 5:07 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> >
> >
> >> Bill,
> >>    Drilling into the deck where it is delaminated or the core is rotted
is
> >> easy. The top layer of fiberglass is only 1/8 - 3/16" or so. You'll
know
> > for
> >> sure after one or two holes. When the drill bit penetrates the skin,
> > you'll
> >> feel the difference because then it's drilling air (or rotted core
which
> >> feels like air). The hard part is stopping before you go further. If
> > you're
> >> used to using a drill, it's easy. If you're not, you will be quickly.
For
> >> any holes that make it through the lower skin, I recommend using
polyester
> >> putty (Bondo or Body fill stuff) to close the hole. It works better
than
> >> most tapes.
> >>    I suggest using a 3/16" bit. When you finally get to inject the
epoxy,
> >> start at the lowest point and keep injecting until it starts to come
out
> > of
> >> other holes. When that happens, put a #10 sheet metal screw (only use
> > brand
> >> new screws) into the hole where the epoxy is coming out, and keep
> > injecting
> >> into that same hole if possible. It's better to fill the voids from the
> >> bottom up. If you use brand new screws to close the holes as they get
> > full,
> >> the oil from manufacturing will prevent the epoxy from bonding to them.
If
> >> you use old screws, or heavily handled screws, they may become part of
the
> >> deck forever.
> >>    Good luck, it's easier than it sounds.
> >> Brian    #497
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Furey, Bill (CORP)" <bill.furey at corporate.ge.com>
> >> To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> >> Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2002 11:23 AM
> >> Subject: RE: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> >>
> >>
> >>> Hi Greg: I have an Alberg 35 with some wet areas. two questions:
> >>> 1. how deep for the holes & can you tell readily that you have'nt
> > drilled
> >>> too far?
> >>> 2. How can I get &how much, what brand etc for a moisture meter.
> >>> thks.
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: greg [mailto:greg at vandenbergphoto.com]
> >>> Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 6:03 PM
> >>> To: public-list at alberg30.org
> >>> Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> I may regret sticking my nose in here. Having been involved in the
> > repair
> >> of
> >>> such
> >>> things on our 1968 A30 #312. We have replaced our cockpit soul and
> >> repaired
> >>> side
> >>> deck de lamination in areas of the non skid with good result. It is
not
> > as
> >>> scary
> >>> as it looks... just time consuming. We did not cut away the wet
> >> de-laminated
> >>> areas  of the deck  ( not true of the cockpit sole) but drilled 1/4
inch
> >>> holes on
> >>> a 1 inch grid over the wet areas and then with lamps dried the areas
> > till
> >>> the
> >>> moisture meter showed an acceptable content. We then injected as much
> >> epoxy
> >>> resin
> >>> as the delaminated area would except and filled and smoothed the area
> > with
> >>> thickened epoxy. Over which we applied a new non skid surface with
> >> mron(sp)
> >>> and
> >>> Awlgrip's silica. We did this on the entire deck  and cockpit. It
looked
> >>> great
> >>> when complete. Drying was not a fast process it took days and the
> > project
> >>> took
> >>> alot of time away from sailing.
> >>>
> >>> Kindest Regards- Greg
> >>>
> >>> PS: I'm in west Michigan if you want to talk. 616 454 5225
> >>> PPS: Same for the cockpit sole.
> >>>
> >>> "Paloma L. Hawry" wrote:
> >>>
> >>>>
> >>>> We need to let the owner know soon if we are willing to purchase the
> >> boat
> >>>> and tackle this work.  Our expectation is that we are looking at deck
> >>>> repairs anywhere between $2000 and $7000 range - assuming we do some
> > of
> >>> the
> >>>> work ourselves. (We are handy and willing to do much of the prep and
> >>>> painting/finish work, but haven't got the experience or sufficient
> > time
> >>> for
> >>>> the structural work).  As we are on a very tight budget, we can't
> > afford
> >>>> major surprises beyond that range.
> >>>>
> >>>
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