[Alberg30] Deck Repairs

Mon Feb 4 15:33:13 PST 2002

If anyone wants to repair this sort of damage via deck removal / clean out /
recore / replace deck, PLEASE use a synthetic core material. Just imagine
having to do it again!!
I wonder if all this discussion has scared off the originator of the thread?
Brian    #497
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neal Jackson" <NJackson at npr.org>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 5:31 PM
Subject: RE: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs

> I had my deck done by a yard, and did not watch the work (it DID take a
long
> time).  So I can only claim derivative expertise (derived from what the
> owner of the yard told me).
>
> But this drilling method sounds like water torture.  Why would you not
just
> take a small rotary hand saw with an exposed blade (one on an arbor maybe
> with a flexible shaft) and just carefully cut out the deck over the soggy
> core in straight lines, a rectangle at a time? This surely sounds quicker,
> more likely to get all the wet core out and easier to repair and cure to
me.
>
> Incidentally, one thing that the yard told me would reduce the spreading
of
> wayward moisture in the future is to use balsa on-end.  This way the
fibers
> tend not to draw the water across a wider area through capillary action.
I
> suppose that if you use synthetic coring this is not an issue.
>
> But this is indeed an interesting exchange.  Didn't it start with someone
> wanting to buy a boat?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brian and Elaine Timmins [mailto:timmins at optonline.net]
> Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 4:45 PM
> To: public-list at alberg30.org
> Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
>
>
> When I did my foredeck, The boat was indoors, but not heated. I would
start
> up either one or two Origo Alcohol heaters in the V berth area every time
I
> went to the boat (if it was over 40`, I was there after work, or all day).
I
> drilled the holes in December and did the epoxy injection by the end of
May.
> The core was giving me relatively dry samples before I started the
> injection. Five or six years later, it's still fine.
> Brian   #497
> P.S. I like the margerine idea, but can't vouch for it personally.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Berube5" <Berube5 at cox.net>
> To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 3:21 PM
> Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
>
>
> > Bill,
> >
> > A word of caution- Pearson used balsa in the construction of their
decks.
> > From personal experience I can tell you that the "drill and dry" method
is
> > not a rapid repair- time wise.
> >
> > Balsa holds moisture tenaciously. I have drilled a pattern of holes into
> the
> > core in the manner that others have suggested. My boat has been stored
> > indoors and heated for over a year. After NINE months of "drying out" I
> > could still pull up wet drill cores of balsa after drilling new test
> holes.
> >
> > I used the heat lamp approach- to little effect. You also need to be
> careful
> > not to overheat the fiberglass- Don Casey says that if it is too hot to
> > touch- it is too hot. Obviously, if the boat is outdoors it will not dry
> out
> > if the decks are frozen.
> >
> > I don't want to discourage you- but it is important be realistic and
> > patient. A job like this should not be rushed. An epoxy repair will not
> work
> > if the core is still wet.
> >
> > Good luck,
> >
> > Dana Berube
> > 1960 Pearson Triton (balsa core deck)
> >
> > On 02/04/2002 13:40, "Furey, Bill (CORP)" <bill.furey at corporate.ge.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Bria & Gord: Thanks-the drying process may be tricky-the boat
> > > is uncovered(reason for the problem in the first place)I guess
> > > wait for a dry weather pattern, drill holes, & rig lamps?
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Gord Laco [mailto:gord at transatmarine.com]
> > > Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 8:32 AM
> > > To: public-list at alberg30.org
> > > Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> > >
> > >
> > > I've done the same job - I dip the screws in margerine to keep the
epoxy
> > > from holding them.
> > >
> > > Gord
> > > KC426 Surprise
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Brian and Elaine Timmins <timmins at optonline.net>
> > > To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > > Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2002 5:07 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> > >
> > >
> > >> Bill,
> > >>    Drilling into the deck where it is delaminated or the core is
rotted
> is
> > >> easy. The top layer of fiberglass is only 1/8 - 3/16" or so. You'll
> know
> > > for
> > >> sure after one or two holes. When the drill bit penetrates the skin,
> > > you'll
> > >> feel the difference because then it's drilling air (or rotted core
> which
> > >> feels like air). The hard part is stopping before you go further. If
> > > you're
> > >> used to using a drill, it's easy. If you're not, you will be quickly.
> For
> > >> any holes that make it through the lower skin, I recommend using
> polyester
> > >> putty (Bondo or Body fill stuff) to close the hole. It works better
> than
> > >> most tapes.
> > >>    I suggest using a 3/16" bit. When you finally get to inject the
> epoxy,
> > >> start at the lowest point and keep injecting until it starts to come
> out
> > > of
> > >> other holes. When that happens, put a #10 sheet metal screw (only use
> > > brand
> > >> new screws) into the hole where the epoxy is coming out, and keep
> > > injecting
> > >> into that same hole if possible. It's better to fill the voids from
the
> > >> bottom up. If you use brand new screws to close the holes as they get
> > > full,
> > >> the oil from manufacturing will prevent the epoxy from bonding to
them.
> If
> > >> you use old screws, or heavily handled screws, they may become part
of
> the
> > >> deck forever.
> > >>    Good luck, it's easier than it sounds.
> > >> Brian    #497
> > >> ----- Original Message -----
> > >> From: "Furey, Bill (CORP)" <bill.furey at corporate.ge.com>
> > >> To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > >> Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2002 11:23 AM
> > >> Subject: RE: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> Hi Greg: I have an Alberg 35 with some wet areas. two questions:
> > >>> 1. how deep for the holes & can you tell readily that you have'nt
> > > drilled
> > >>> too far?
> > >>> 2. How can I get &how much, what brand etc for a moisture meter.
> > >>> thks.
> > >>>
> > >>> -----Original Message-----
> > >>> From: greg [mailto:greg at vandenbergphoto.com]
> > >>> Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 6:03 PM
> > >>> To: public-list at alberg30.org
> > >>> Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> I may regret sticking my nose in here. Having been involved in the
> > > repair
> > >> of
> > >>> such
> > >>> things on our 1968 A30 #312. We have replaced our cockpit soul and
> > >> repaired
> > >>> side
> > >>> deck de lamination in areas of the non skid with good result. It is
> not
> > > as
> > >>> scary
> > >>> as it looks... just time consuming. We did not cut away the wet
> > >> de-laminated
> > >>> areas  of the deck  ( not true of the cockpit sole) but drilled 1/4
> inch
> > >>> holes on
> > >>> a 1 inch grid over the wet areas and then with lamps dried the areas
> > > till
> > >>> the
> > >>> moisture meter showed an acceptable content. We then injected as
much
> > >> epoxy
> > >>> resin
> > >>> as the delaminated area would except and filled and smoothed the
area
> > > with
> > >>> thickened epoxy. Over which we applied a new non skid surface with
> > >> mron(sp)
> > >>> and
> > >>> Awlgrip's silica. We did this on the entire deck  and cockpit. It
> looked
> > >>> great
> > >>> when complete. Drying was not a fast process it took days and the
> > > project
> > >>> took
> > >>> alot of time away from sailing.
> > >>>
> > >>> Kindest Regards- Greg
> > >>>
> > >>> PS: I'm in west Michigan if you want to talk. 616 454 5225
> > >>> PPS: Same for the cockpit sole.
> > >>>
> > >>> "Paloma L. Hawry" wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>> We need to let the owner know soon if we are willing to purchase
the
> > >> boat
> > >>>> and tackle this work.  Our expectation is that we are looking at
deck
> > >>>> repairs anywhere between $2000 and $7000 range - assuming we do
some
> > > of
> > >>> the
> > >>>> work ourselves. (We are handy and willing to do much of the prep
and
> > >>>> painting/finish work, but haven't got the experience or sufficient
> > > time
> > >>> for
> > >>>> the structural work).  As we are on a very tight budget, we can't
> > > afford
> > >>>> major surprises beyond that range.
> > >>>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
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