[Alberg30] Prop shaft drip

[Brian and Elaine Timmins]

Bill,
  First you loosen the aft nut (lock nut) by turning it clockwise (assuming
your laying on the engine). Then tighten the fwd nut (packing nut) again
turning clockwise, until the drip just stops. Then tighten the locknut onto
the packing nut by turning it counterclockwise while holding the packing nut
in position.
   After the adjustment, you should have no drips with the shaft still and a
real slow drip with the shaft turning.
Good luck,
Brian       ex #497
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Blevins" <bblevins at fredericksburg.com>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Friday, July 05, 2002 9:40 AM
Subject: [Alberg30] Prop shaft drip


> While the discussion here is in this general area of the boat [Moving the
> prop shaft], can someone advise on stopping a constant drip at the large
nut
> on the prop shaft just before it enters the rubber tube exiting the hull?
>
> I think you loosen the front nut, tighten the rear nut, then tighten the
> front one. Any cautions? Words of wisdom?
>
> Is this safe to do while sitting in the water? Any fears of busting
> something below the water line or live with the drip until it's hauled
next?
>
> --
> Tracy and Bill Blevins
> SABRINA, Dahlgren, VA
> Alberg 30 #158
> ##
> On 7/5/02 8:21 AM, "T.C. Williams" <tcw at capu.net> wrote:
>
> > Hello all,
> >
> > The rear main seal on Argo is leaking severely enough that I can't keep
oil
> > in the engine.  This presents the obvious problem of effectively not
having
> > an engine.  Thinking this can't be that tough of a job, I went over to a
> > friends house (C.B. Courier) and examined an Atomic 4 sitting on a
> > workbench.  First, remove three bolts to disconnect the prop shaft.
Remove
> > one large nut on the end of the shaft and use a gear puller to remove
the
> > flange.  The rear main cover is held on by six bolts.  With the aid of
an
> > air ratchet and compressor, we had everything apart in less than 15
minutes.
> > Since I know I would be climbing over the engine in a tight space, I
figured
> > I should use that time and multiply by 4 for my estimated repair time.
You
> > know where this is going.
> >
> > Once the 3 bolts from the shaft were removed, the shaft and the engine
would
> > turn independently.  However, once the stuffing box was taken apart and
the
> > nut moved up the shaft to provide clearance, the shaft would not move
aft
> > even the slightest.  The rudder has been turned to the side so I don't
think
> > that's it.  Before I get someone to dive on the boat or have it hauled
out,
> > I was hoping someone would have some words of wisdom.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > T.C. Williams
> > Argo 247
> >
> >
> > +---------------------------------------------------------------+
> > |  Boatowners Mechanical And Electrical Manual by Nigel Calder  |
> > | http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/007009618X/alberg30-20 |
> > +---------------------------------------------------------------+
> >
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>
>  +---------------------------------------------------------------+
>  |  Boatowners Mechanical And Electrical Manual by Nigel Calder  |
>  | http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/007009618X/alberg30-20 |
>  +---------------------------------------------------------------+
>
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 +---------------------------------------------------------------+
 |  Boatowners Mechanical And Electrical Manual by Nigel Calder  |
 | http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/007009618X/alberg30-20 |
 +---------------------------------------------------------------+

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