[Alberg30] Moving the prop shaft

[Brian and Elaine Timmins]

If your doing this in the water, be very careful re leaks at the stuffing
box. Even if your prop is in such a position that it will hit the rudder, it
should move aft some before it does. Unless your dealing with an extremely
worn shaft, the only thing keeping it from moving is the stuffing. You need
to loosen the packing nut untill the water is leaking in heavily. Then use a
pry bar to start the shaft sliding back. be careful of the one to two inches
it will take for the prop to hit the rudder. you'll most likely have to
rotate the shaft some to get the prop clear. then you should be able to
slide it back until the coupling hits the stuffing box. once you've got the
required clearance to do the work, tighten the stuffing box to stop the
leak.
   OBTW, Don't try this unless you have a good bilge pump and a helper to
run for assistance if needed.
Brian    ex #497
----- Original Message -----
From: "C.B. Currier" <cbcurrier at spinrx.com>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2002 7:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Moving the prop shaft


> Just wanted to reiterate T.C.'s message,
> Does any one know if there is any trick to sliding the prop shaft aft?
> Can it be done? If so how? (Loosen the stuffing box, then what?)
>
> Thanks,
>
> C.B. Currier
>
>
> T.C. Williams said:
> > Hello all,
> >
> > The rear main seal on Argo is leaking severely enough that I can't keep
> > oil in the engine.  This presents the obvious problem of effectively
> > not having an engine.  Thinking this can't be that tough of a job, I
> > went over to a friends house (C.B. Courier) and examined an Atomic 4
> > sitting on a workbench.  First, remove three bolts to disconnect the
> > prop shaft.  Remove one large nut on the end of the shaft and use a
> > gear puller to remove the flange.  The rear main cover is held on by
> > six bolts.  With the aid of an air ratchet and compressor, we had
> > everything apart in less than 15 minutes. Since I know I would be
> > climbing over the engine in a tight space, I figured I should use that
> > time and multiply by 4 for my estimated repair time.  You know where
> > this is going.
> >
> > Once the 3 bolts from the shaft were removed, the shaft and the engine
> > would turn independently.  However, once the stuffing box was taken
> > apart and the nut moved up the shaft to provide clearance, the shaft
> > would not move aft even the slightest.  The rudder has been turned to
> > the side so I don't think that's it.  Before I get someone to dive on
> > the boat or have it hauled out, I was hoping someone would have some
> > words of wisdom.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > T.C. Williams
> > Argo 247
> >
> >
> > +---------------------------------------------------------------+ |
> > Boatowners Mechanical And Electrical Manual by Nigel Calder  | |
> > http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/007009618X/alberg30-20 |
> > +---------------------------------------------------------------+
> >
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>
>  +---------------------------------------------------------------+
>  |  Boatowners Mechanical And Electrical Manual by Nigel Calder  |
>  | http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/007009618X/alberg30-20 |
>  +---------------------------------------------------------------+
>
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 |  Boatowners Mechanical And Electrical Manual by Nigel Calder  |
 | http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/007009618X/alberg30-20 |
 +---------------------------------------------------------------+

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