[Alberg30] Deck Coring - Epoxy

[C.B. Currier]

Thanks for the quick reply,

I really did not want to get into the Epoxy discussion but Will move it
to a different topic.

The reason for MAAS over West is the quality of the cure.
One thing to take into account is the rigidity of the final product.
Different eopxies/Mixtures(ratios) create different type of bond.  A
chemical engineer
probably can define this much better than I. However having worked for years
with west system which has properties wht cause it to cure to a very rigid
if not brittle final product I have been dissatified with its long term
quality.
MAAS on the otherhand (though maybe cheaper but not by much) is easier to
work
with during the cure, has a stronger more resilient consistency to it. And I
believe
As do many boat builders today that it provides a better final product.

THere are many factors to good epoxy, however it is used in Annapolis by
chesapeake
lightcraft for their kits and is advocated by the guys at fawcetts as THE
epoxy of choice.

Having used it on quite a few glass jobs I can tell you I like it much
better due to it
resiliency cure quality and bonding.  I do not worry like I do about the
west epoxies about
a cured job cracking/splitting when hitting the dock or an anchor being
dropped on the deck.


C.B. Currier


> -----Original Message-----
> From: public-list-admin at alberg30.org
> [mailto:public-list-admin at alberg30.org]On Behalf Of J Bergquist
> Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 10:31 AM
> To: public-list at alberg30.org
> Cc: public-list at alberg30.org
> Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Coring
>
>
> C.B.
>
> I haven't done this job on a boat of my own, so take my advice
> with that in mind. I would caution against using option 1,
> because it is a stopgap solution at best. At worst it is just a
> waste of time and effort and will probably only make the recore
> job more difficult when you do eventually have to do it. If you
> plan to either keep or sell the boat, it would probably be best
> for your resale or for your use of the boat do do a good recore job.
>
> As regards the epoxy, I am a huge proponent of west system for
> personal use, even though it is more expensive than the MAS. I
> haven't used MAS very much so I don't know that one. However, I
> did once buy a bunch of 'Barrier' epoxy from Defender and had a
> lot of problems with proper cure. I had to use heat guns to get
> it to work. I have found that West system is the most forgiving
> epoxy in terms of mixing (the proportions still have to be
> accurate, but for some reason West seems to work even if they are
> a little off, like when the pumps get air bubbles, or I have even
> just dumped roughly right proportions into a cup and it still
> worked famously). I did have some friends that built a kayak with
> MAS because it was cheaper and they had some cure issues, I
> think. West has never failed to work flawlessly for me, so I
> think it is worth the extra cost. If you're a professional, using
> gallons of the stuff every day, it pays to find a cheaper brand
> and get to know its idiosyncracies. B!
> ut if you're just doing a recore job, you want the epoxy to cure
> right the first time, and you don't want to monkey around with
> what turns out to be a big sticky mess if it doesn't cure right,
> so I advocate sticking with Gougeon. That's enough about epoxy.
>
> Regarding core, you could use foam, or you could use end-grain
> balsa. I would check prices. End grain balsa is probably cheaper.
> If you bed the core right (especially if you vacuum bag it in to
> ensure proper adhesion of the core bedding to the core and
> laminate), it will be totally waterproof and then you just have
> to be careful when you install hardware not to leave any of the
> core exposed where water can get to it.
>
> Foam will probably be lighter, soak up less resin, and might be
> more rot resistant. But it will probably be more expensive and
> harder to work with (because even scored foam tends to be pretty
> stiff, where balsa is more flexible). However, the rot resistance
> of foam should not be over estimated and depends strongly on what
> brand and type you use.
>
> You could also consider using plywood, but I think the balsa
> would be a better choice. It is much lighter, same rot resistance
> (probably better in fact, since the end grain tends to keep water
> localized), and probably about the same price.
>
> I'm real interested to hear if anybody has some specific
> information about different flavors of foam core.
>
> J Bergquist
> Calliope #287
>
>  +---------------------------------------------------------------+
>  |  Boatowners Mechanical And Electrical Manual by Nigel Calder  |
>  | http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/007009618X/alberg30-20 |
>  +---------------------------------------------------------------+
>
> _______________________________________________
> Public-list mailing list -- Public-list at alberg30.org
> http://www.alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
> To unsubscribe: email to Public-list-request at alberg30.org
> Include command "unsubscribe <password>" in subject or body.
> Use command "help" for more options.
>

 +---------------------------------------------------------------+
 |  Boatowners Mechanical And Electrical Manual by Nigel Calder  |
 | http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/007009618X/alberg30-20 |
 +---------------------------------------------------------------+

_______________________________________________
Public-list mailing list -- Public-list at alberg30.org
http://www.alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
To unsubscribe: email to Public-list-request at alberg30.org
Include command "unsubscribe <password>" in subject or body.
Use command "help" for more options.

 1024584830.0