[Alberg30] Advice on Restoring Gunwhales, Lazarettes, Hatches

[Wally Moran]

one caution for those who haven't used a heat gun - it can harm the 
glass, don't overheat in any one spot.

Wally Moran
s/v Publisher's Choice

>Having Grown up on Wooden boats & now owning 2 different but aged 
>Alberg 30's, I would suggest the following ( which I am adhering to 
>myself).
>1. My Aunt owned my previous boat #57 Infinity which has the thick 
>deep teak rails and seats. The wood is beautiful. My aunt used to 
>Varnish it. Tons of annual maintenance went into finishing it every 
>year. 
>     If I continued to varnish I would only use captains varnish ( 
>i'm a sucker for the traditional), the biggest pain but the best 
>finish there is. Remove using a heat gun & scraper. Skip the sander, 
>that only removes you skin faster. Actually the sanders work but not 
>to the extent that the heat gun does. Sand afterwards if need be.
>2.My second boat has the newer teak jobs where there is thin amounts 
>of teak screwed in but not too difficult to pull and replace. If you 
>choose to replace do so only where you have to or where there are 
>leaks (so you can caulk). The newer boats had fibergalss seats so 
>little teak to mess with.
>
>Regardless of teak on or off if you have to remove the old varnish 
>use the heat gun It will also help to get it out from between the 
>grains. Sanding won't.
>
>Either way, bowing to my wifes desire to have the real teak look we 
>opted for oil. We now cleaned the teak this spring with bleach & 
>soapy (detegent) water. You may also use a power washer, which does 
>an awesome job, but watch out for taking off too much teak. Then 
>upon clean and dry we oiled the teak with teak oil from west marine. 
>Stuff looks great. Little maintenance (During the summer oil once a 
>month to keep it looking good). And thats it.
>
>The teak keeps up on its own. No need for too much work.
>
>C.B. Currier
>Infinity #57
>Daybreak #458
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: public-list-admin at alberg30.org 
>[mailto:public-list-admin at alberg30.org]On Behalf Of Hansen, Richard 
>LTC OF-TF
>Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 10:03 AM
>To: public-list at alberg30.org
>Subject: [Alberg30] Advice on Restoring Gunwhales, Lazarettes, Hatches
>
>Task:  Restore the original woodwork on Sunspur, 235 (1967); badly 
>needs it.  Teak appears dry, grey, and worn as it could be (no 
>splits yet).  Proximity/availability to boat suggests removal of 
>trim.
>
>Basic question:   Is it advisable or not advisable to remove various 
>pieces to better facilitate restoration? Thought about removing all 
>BUT the toe rail (gunwhales, stern hatch, lazarette seats, 
>companionway hatch/rails).
>
>Detailed questions:
>1. At the risk of inciting internet civil war, I'll ask if the 
>age/condition of the teak suggest oil treatment vs. varnish?
>
>2. Gunwhales - I see 7-8 horizontal screws and 2 into the cabin, but 
>there is a teak quarter round on the outside.  No apparent 
>thru-hulls so I presume that 1/4 rd rail attaches to gunwhale not 
>glass?
>
>3. Lazarette seats - Would appear to be easier to disassemble seat 
>with hinge attached, i.e., remove screws attaching it to glass?
>
>4. Companion Hatch - four metal retaining plates are a bear to 
>access tighten untighten, whats the secret?
>
>Would appreciate any advice/experience you can pass along.  I 
>routinely underestimate dissassembly/assembly jobs, and find out 
>afterward that I should have just fixed in place.  Your thoughts?


-- 
The gods do not deduct from man's allotted span the hours spent in 
sailing. Anon
www.georgianbaysailing.ca for interesting reading for sailors
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