[Alberg30] Advice on Restoring Gunwhales...

[Daniel Sternglass]

> "Hansen, Richard LTC OF-TF" wrote:
> 
> Task:  Restore the original woodwork on Sunspur, 235 (1967); badly
> needs it...
> 
> ...Is it advisable or not advisable to remove various pieces?...

I just refinished (stripped and varnished 5 coats) all the teak that
"comes off easily." To me, that means everything -except- the toe rails,
coamings and strip at the bottom of the companionway. The boat is stored
under canvas tarps during the winter, so I could do this with some
crawling around and leave it w/o hatches for weeks. Anything that goes
into or through the deck require careful bedding to avoid water getting
into and rotting the core. I use white 'Lifecaulk.' (I drilled the plugs
in the interior handrails long ago). For reassembling the v-berth hatch,
I use marine silicone for it's ease of cleanup, that's about the only
place that I use silicone.

I'd advise against removing the toe rails in particular, since they are
pretty easy to work on and it's a big pain to drill and replace plugs,
rebed, etc. Likewise the coamings. By the way, you may want to prime and
paint the backs of the hatches with marine enamel to reduce warpage,
particualarly the 2 big settees in the cockpit and the cooler hatch.

I won't take a position on the various finishes, but there are several
good 'Practical Sailor' magazine articles on on the tradeoffs. I think
you can download the articles from their web site for a fee. I'm old
fashioned (and in fresh water), so I still like that Epiphanes varnish
look, as time consuming as it is...

--Dan Sternglass
dans at stmktg.com
#201, Watcher of the Skies, 1966, Cayuga Lake, Ithaca, NY
 +---------------------------------------------------------------+
 |  Boatowners Mechanical And Electrical Manual by Nigel Calder  |
 | http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/007009618X/alberg30-20 |
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