[Alberg30] Advice on Restoring Gunwhales, Lazarettes, Hatches
Dave Terrell
DTERRELL.GWSTAFF.GWNMC at message.nmc.edu
Mon Jun 24 11:41:44 PDT 2002
Lazarettes: On an earlier inquiry, I was advised that the lazarette wood could be removed with router and that one could use 1/4 teak planks - tounge and groove were suggested - to get a very nice results when finished. I have decided that that is a winter project.
Companion way: No idea on an Aberg. I did it on my Cal 27 and it was a straight forward job - just required some patience.
Coamings - I thought to take them out this winter but could not figure about how to detach them. I could have had I looked longer but it was getting really cold.
Interior wood - on newer boats removing the wood where the storage compartments doors are is easy. Just unscrew and wrestle with it a bit. The teak trim in the v-berth shelf is just screwed in - very easy to remove. In the "hanging locker" across from the head and under the settee there are large pieces of teak or other wood that are in very solidly and may require some serious work to remove. I do not know how much now. I decided to refinish these in place. Aside from the work to be done in the time I had to do it, I did not see the merit of removing it. Had I done so, I could have checked the status of the screws that held them in place, but that is put off till a later date as far as I am concerned. The head door and the door to the v-berth I took out for refinishing at home. Ihave no idea how things can be removed on older boats.
Toe Rail. My toe rail is through bolted where the genoa track is and it could be taken off easily - if you can get to all the bolt ends The rest appears to be screwed in. I do not know if any adhesive - or what kind - was used to attach it along the screws.
Since the wood was in fairly good shape I went with the "in place upgrade" and will leave harder things to be done this winter.
I hope this is of some help to you.
David
Talisman, #432
>>> Richard.Hansen at hqda.army.mil 06/24/02 02:12PM >>>
Thanks Bob. I'll save for future reference, and I promise to incite the
"Wood Finish" debate once I'm done with prep. What I'm really after now is
recommendations on the ease of removing/reinstalling the teak, except for
toe rail (I'll leave that and restore in place). While most exterior teak
pieces look easy to remove & reinstall (toe rail excluded), I'd hate learn
that assembly is 10 times more difficult than reassembly. Looking for
encouragement that most average, weekend, do-it-yourselfers can remove and
reinstall teak without compounding problems. Or looking for prudent
warnings that I'd better leave teak in place...that the nook-and-cranny
sanding effort is far less than the remove-reinstall effort. Will apply the
Millionaire show technique, Ask the Audience.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Chambers [mailto:BlueDolphin at rivnet.net]
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 12:55 PM
To: public-list at alberg30.org
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Advice on Restoring Gunwhales, Lazarettes, Hatches
I cannot speak too highly of Armada Gloss for the exterior teak. Armada is
made by some ex-cetol people and I feel is a slightly superior product.
Better color and more of natural wood grain comes through. Have had on my
boat for three years now in tropic sun and much of it still looks good. I
DO NOT sand between coats, to the contrary, you want as much buildup as
possible. I put on four coats. In theory, one maintenance coat each year
after washing well will preserve it. I just got lazy so now after three
years, I will sand down and re-do. Still, it is far easier than varnish and
looks almost as good. Also, you can touch up if you get a ding unlike
varnish.
Bob Chambers
+---------------------------------------------------------------+
| Boatowners Mechanical And Electrical Manual by Nigel Calder |
| http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/007009618X/alberg30-20 |
+---------------------------------------------------------------+
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