[Alberg30] Advice on Restoring Gunwhales, Lazarettes, Hatches

[Scott]

My experience with oiling teak is that it requires oiling at least twice
a month or it fades into gray very quickly and gets ugly dark streaks
and stains from mildew and other microorganisms that absolutely flourish
in the hot humid atmosphere aboard a boat...
I have used both Boat US teak oil as well as some more expensive ones
and given up on all of them!  I only varnish - if you do the job right,
you can touch up at the end of the season and go the next couple of
years with just touchups and a new few coats over the old...There used
to be a popular two part oil product called DEKS OJAY...I haven't heard
of it in quite a while...the number one was a nice oil type finish that
looked more real than CETOL...Number 2 was, I believe, a varnish based
sealer...

Scott Wallace, HELL-DIVER Bluenose 24



"Hansen, Richard LTC OF-TF" wrote:

> Thanks C.B. and Wally.  Won't be my problem as there is very little
> finish remaining...just old, grey, micro-chiseled/raised teak that
> will definitely require sanding.
>
>      -----Original Message-----
>      From: Wally Moran [mailto:helm at georgianbaysailing.ca]
>      Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 4:00 PM
>      To: public-list at alberg30.org
>      Subject: RE: [Alberg30] Advice on Restoring Gunwhales,
>      Lazarettes, Hatches
>
>      one caution for those who haven't used a heat gun - it can
>      harm the glass, don't overheat in any one spot. Wally
>      Morans/v Publisher's Choice
>
>     > Having Grown up on Wooden boats & now owning 2 different
>     > but aged Alberg 30's, I would suggest the following (
>     > which I am adhering to myself).
>
>     > 1. My Aunt owned my previous boat #57 Infinity which has
>     > the thick deep teak rails and seats. The wood is
>     > beautiful. My aunt used to Varnish it. Tons of annual
>     > maintenance went into finishing it every year.
>
>     >     If I continued to varnish I would only use captains
>     > varnish ( i'm a sucker for the traditional), the biggest
>     > pain but the best finish there is. Remove using a heat gun
>     > & scraper. Skip the sander, that only removes you skin
>     > faster. Actually the sanders work but not to the extent
>     > that the heat gun does. Sand afterwards if need be.
>
>     > 2.My second boat has the newer teak jobs where there is
>     > thin amounts of teak screwed in but not too difficult to
>     > pull and replace. If you choose to replace do so only
>     > where you have to or where there are leaks (so you can
>     > caulk). The newer boats had fibergalss seats so little
>     > teak to mess with.
>
>     >
>
>     > Regardless of teak on or off if you have to remove the old
>     > varnish use the heat gun It will also help to get it out
>     > from between the grains. Sanding won't.
>
>     >
>
>     > Either way, bowing to my wifes desire to have the real
>     > teak look we opted for oil. We now cleaned the teak this
>     > spring with bleach & soapy (detegent) water. You may also
>     > use a power washer, which does an awesome job, but watch
>     > out for taking off too much teak. Then upon clean and dry
>     > we oiled the teak with teak oil from west marine. Stuff
>     > looks great. Little maintenance (During the summer oil
>     > once a month to keep it looking good). And thats it.
>
>     >
>
>     > The teak keeps up on its own. No need for too much work.
>
>     >
>
>     > C.B. Currier
>
>     > Infinity #57
>
>     > Daybreak #458
>     >
>     >      -----Original Message-----
>     >      From: public-list-admin at alberg30.org
>     >      [mailto:public-list-admin at alberg30.org]On Behalf
>     >      Of Hansen, Richard LTC OF-TF
>     >      Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 10:03 AM
>     >      To: public-list at alberg30.org
>     >      Subject: [Alberg30] Advice on Restoring
>     >      Gunwhales, Lazarettes, Hatches
>     >
>     >      Task:  Restore the original woodwork on Sunspur,
>     >      235 (1967); badly needs it.  Teak appears dry,
>     >      grey, and worn as it could be (no splits yet).
>     >      Proximity/availability to boat suggests removal
>     >      of trim.
>     >
>     >      Basic question:   Is it advisable or not
>     >      advisable to remove various pieces to better
>     >      facilitate restoration? Thought about removing
>     >      all BUT the toe rail (gunwhales, stern hatch,
>     >      lazarette seats, companionway hatch/rails).
>     >
>     >      Detailed questions:
>     >      1. At the risk of inciting internet civil war,
>     >      I'll ask if the age/condition of the teak
>     >      suggest oil treatment vs. varnish?
>     >
>     >      2. Gunwhales - I see 7-8 horizontal screws and 2
>     >      into the cabin, but there is a teak quarter
>     >      round on the outside.  No apparent thru-hulls so
>     >      I presume that 1/4 rd rail attaches to gunwhale
>     >      not glass?
>     >
>     >      3. Lazarette seats - Would appear to be easier
>     >      to disassemble seat with hinge attached, i.e.,
>     >      remove screws attaching it to glass?
>     >
>     >      4. Companion Hatch - four metal retaining plates
>     >      are a bear to access tighten untighten, whats
>     >      the secret?
>     >
>     >      Would appreciate any advice/experience you can
>     >      pass along.  I routinely underestimate
>     >      dissassembly/assembly jobs, and find out
>     >      afterward that I should have just fixed in
>     >      place.  Your thoughts?
>     >
>
>
>      --
>
>      The gods do not deduct from man's allotted span the hours
>      spent in sailing. Anon
>      www.georgianbaysailing.ca for interesting reading for
>      sailors
>
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