[Alberg30] Cutless bearing?

Mike Lehman sail_505 at hotmail.com
Tue Mar 12 11:11:26 PST 2002


Hi Dan,

1. The cutlass bearing housing is attached to the keel by the two bolts on 
the outside. These bolts are tapped into the keel and there are no nuts on 
the inside of the boat. They are silicon bronze, and should be replaced, 
especially if they show any pink coloration. Once the bolts are removed, the 
housing unscrews from the stern tube, counter-clockwise. I read someone 
else's suggestion to hold the stern tube from turning - I think this is a 
excellent suggestion. I would do so by climbing in behind the engine (ugh) 
and clamping a pair of vise grips around the tube, wedging them tight 
against the hull on the port side (assuming you are working alone).

2. Unless the stern tube is leaking, don't mess with the caulking.




----Original Message Follows----
From: Dan Morley <dan.morley at sympatico.ca>
Reply-To: public-list at alberg30.org
To: public-list at alberg30.org
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Cutless bearing?
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 18:23:51 -0500

Hi Mike,
     I own hull #322, and hope to replace the cutless bearing within the 
next
month (looks like I''m not alone in this endeavor!!).  A couple of things 
are
not clear to me:
     1.  I assume the bearing housing is attached to the skeg by those two 
large
bolts, whose hex heads are accessible just behind the propellor.  Are there 
nuts
inside the hull, or are the bolts tapped into the skeg, so that they can be
removed from the outside?

     2.  Inside the hull, where the bearing mount is fixed to it, there is a 
LOT
of sealant - can that be left alone (or will I have to wiggle my poor aging 
body
back there somehow - OUCH)?
Thanks for the help.

Dan Morley
PS: as an update for all those folks who were so helpful when I needed
information about the mast support beam repair:

     I had an offer from Whitby Boat and Specialty Woodwork (housed in same
building, apparently, as the original Whitby Boat works, and owned by Alex, 
a
previous foreman of that boatyard) to build me a brand new beam (he was most
helpful, and friendly).  I tried removing the original beam, and after much
cutting, wrenching and prying, fear got the better of me, and I resorted to 
plan
B, which was the application of aluminum plates.  I made up templates, first 
in
rough form from cardboard, and in finished form from thin masonite.  I got 
the
plates cut in Kitchener Ont.  I will install them at the end of the month,
taking advantage of al your good suggestions.  Thanks!!

Mike Lehman wrote:

 > If the shaft only has minor play in it I wouldn't worry about it. When 
the
 > cutlass bearing is worn you can tell. The directions are about right. 
There
 > are two set screws in the housing to hold the bearing in place. Remove 
them
 > first. Then remove the bearing, which has probably been pressed in, so 
you
 > will need to drive it out with something. I have used a socket just a 
tiny
 > bit smaller that the bearing itself. Clean the housing uo, install a new
 > bearing (which will be longer than the housing), cut off the excess,
 > reinstall new set screws, and most inportantly drill some holes through 
the
 > bearing from the water intakes on the housing. This will assure that the
 > bearing does not 'run dry' and wear prematurely. Reinstall on boat, put 
prop
 > back on, go sailing (launch boat first if you did this on land).
 >
 > ----Original Message Follows----
 > From: Randy Katz <randyk at bertschi.org>
 > Reply-To: public-list at alberg30.org
 > To: Alberg list <public-list at alberg30.org>
 > Subject: [Alberg30] Cutless bearing?
 > Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 17:20:00 -0800
 >
 > Greetings,
 >      A question about replacing the shaft bearing.  Don Casey in "This 
Old
 > Boat" describes going through this task as follows:
 >
 >      -- Remove prop
 >
 >      --  Remove bearing housing (the metal housing just fwd of the prop
 > that's attached to the skeg)  The bearing will come out with the housing 
or
 > will perhaps remain partway stuck into the skeg.
 >
 >      --  Remove the bearing from the housing or tug it out the rest of 
the
 > way from the skeg
 >
 >      -- Replace and voila-- done!  No shaft removal required.
 >
 >      My questions to you hallowed experts and old salts are these:
 >      *  Does the above describe a sensible approach to our fine vessels 
when
 > this job is needed?
 >
 >      *  Before any of the above operations, if the shaft wiggles only  
the
 > merest, tiny-tiniest bit is any of this nonsense required?
 >
 >      Many thanks!
 >
 >      --
 > Randy Katz
 > 910 - 32nd Ave
 > Seattle, WA. 98122
 > (206)-323-1941
 >
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