[Alberg30] Help- Tin Canning Bow

[Greek Sailor]

I noticed the same situation while she was on the hard. I took the stem head fitting apart and to my surprise I found the thru hull bolts were bent! The whole stem head fitting was pulled upward by the forestay force, about 1/2 inch fore minimizing to zero aft. I took the whole thing off and took out all the caulking that was previously squeezed in there. I filled the whole area with furring compound, three hands of it and sanded it down similar to a baby's behind.

At the same time, it dawned upon me where the water was coming in; under the steam head plate and the deck / hull seal. After I sealed both, there has not been a drop of water to be seen in the boat! And I do like to bury the rail at times.

While at it and of concern of crossing the Atlantic in 2004 I decided to upgrade the whole stem head fitting and it's connection to the bow.

First upgrade was to upgrade the bolts that attach the chainplate to the hull as well as bolts that attach the stem head plate to the deck from 1/4 to  5/16".

Second upgrade was to add filler / glass on the inside of the bow where all the bolts come in, making sure to add lock nuts and big washers for load distribution.

Third upgrade was to change the two top bolts that attach the chainplate to the stem head plate from ( 3/4" long flat head machine screws) to 3" bolts that go through the aluminum and bolted from the other side. 

Digital Pic's and diagrams are available for anyone interested.

Christos Katehis
Kasia #383 New York
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: RReitz6289 at aol.com 
  To: Public-list at alberg30.org 
  Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 8:18 PM
  Subject: [Alberg30] Help- Tin Canning Bow


  While placing my Friend " Dances With Waves " #457, on the hard for the winter. The yard master discovered, and I conformed, that the forward part of the port bow is seperating from the deck. The toe rail is about 1/2 to 3/4 inches above the deck. The area had been filled with caulk which is now drying and falling out. I can oil can the top section of the hull about 1/4 inch, for a distance of from 6 inches aft of the bow for a distance of about 30 to 36 inches. To eliminate the possibility of water entering between the toe rail and the hull, and possibly freezing over the winter, I have covered the area with plastic and duct tape
  My thoughts are that I will have to remove the toe rail, scrape away all caulking, press the hull against the inner hull and fasten it to the deck in some manner, probably screwing, then covering the area with fibreglas and epoxy, finishing the job by reseating the toe rail.

  Has anyone had a similar problem? How did they  ahndle it ? What does the group feel about my solution? Can anyone think of problems I might encounter? I am wide open to suggestions.

  Thank you,
  Ralph Reitz
  Dances With Waves #457
  Sea Bright New Jersey 

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