[Alberg30] Help- Tin Canning Bow

[Larry Morris]

Dear John,

Mike and I did both side og my boat last spring bow to stern.   I can tell
you the boat is completely dry.  It took us 2 days to complete the toe rail
removal and the sealing and thru bolting of the joint.  The only thing I
would add to Mike's message is to use NYLOK nuts on the 10-32 bolts.  THey
are much more effective than lock washers.  They will never come loose.

My wood rails were to far gone to salvage.  so they had to be replaced, I
can talk to you off the board about cost and installation.  I am in the A30
yearbook.

Fair Winds

Larry Morris
Solstice #501



  -----Original Message-----
  From: public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org]On Behalf Of John Birch
  Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 3:06 PM
  To: Alberg 30 public list
  Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Help- Tin Canning Bow


  Mike yer awesome -
    ----- Original Message -----
    From: Mike Lehman
    To: A30 Public List
    Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 3:01 PM
    Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Help- Tin Canning Bow


    This is not a difficult repair. The deck/hull joint on #457 is
pop-riveted together with alunimun rivets. If salt water gets into the
joint, it oxidizes the rivets and they fail. They also will fail in a hard
collision with another boat of a bouy or other fixed object. The toe rail is
just a cap rail screwed on with #10 SS screws with wood plugs to cover the
heads. The first step in the repair is to remove the toe rail. Depending on
whether you plan to replace it or save and reuse it will determine how much
care you give on the removal. Once the toe rail is removed, it is a simple
job to drill or pound out the remains of the rivets. Re-assembly should be
done with 5200 as a sealant and 10 x 24 or 32 SS machine screws. It takes
two people, one inside the boat to hold and tighten the bolts and the other
on the outside to hold the screws. The screws should be flat head (either
phillips, square heads or slotted) and counter sunk slightly. I used
phillips each time I have done this. Use clamps to hold the deck and hull
together while installing the screws, start at one end and work your way
along. Once the hull,deck joint is bolted back together, re-install the teak
toe rail. I would use 5200 as a bedding compound for the toe rail, but don't
expect to take it off again in one piece. In my personal opinion, any boat
of this vintage should be re-fitted bow-to-stern on both starboard and port
sides. You wonder where those leaks are in your boat - this is a very likely
culprit. Once you have completed this project, you will be comforted in
knowing that your boat is now stronger that ever. Estimate time - 1 day.

      ----- Original Message -----
      From: John Birch
      Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 1:42 AM
      To: Alberg 30 public list
      Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Help- Tin Canning Bow

      So the sheer clamp has failed - that explains your oil canning - there
was no top plate (formed by the deck connection) to prevent it. Has the hull
delaminated as well or are the glass layers solidly bound to each other in
the vertical plain?

      John
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: RReitz6289 at aol.com
        To: Public-list at alberg30.org
        Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 8:18 PM
        Subject: [Alberg30] Help- Tin Canning Bow


        While placing my Friend " Dances With Waves " #457, on the hard for
the winter. The yard master discovered, and I conformed, that the forward
part of the port bow is seperating from the deck. The toe rail is about 1/2
to 3/4 inches above the deck. The area had been filled with caulk which is
now drying and falling out. I can oil can the top section of the hull about
1/4 inch, for a distance of from 6 inches aft of the bow for a distance of
about 30 to 36 inches. To eliminate the possibility of water entering
between the toe rail and the hull, and possibly freezing over the winter, I
have covered the area with plastic and duct tape
        My thoughts are that I will have to remove the toe rail, scrape away
all caulking, press the hull against the inner hull and fasten it to the
deck in some manner, probably screwing, then covering the area with
fibreglas and epoxy, finishing the job by reseating the toe rail.

        Has anyone had a similar problem? How did they  ahndle it ? What
does the group feel about my solution? Can anyone think of problems I might
encounter? I am wide open to suggestions.

        Thank you,
        Ralph Reitz
        Dances With Waves #457
        Sea Bright New Jersey



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