[Alberg30] Help- Tin Canning Bow

[John Birch]

Mike yer awesome -
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Mike Lehman 
  To: A30 Public List 
  Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 3:01 PM
  Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Help- Tin Canning Bow


  This is not a difficult repair. The deck/hull joint on #457 is pop-riveted together with alunimun rivets. If salt water gets into the joint, it oxidizes the rivets and they fail. They also will fail in a hard collision with another boat of a bouy or other fixed object. The toe rail is just a cap rail screwed on with #10 SS screws with wood plugs to cover the heads. The first step in the repair is to remove the toe rail. Depending on whether you plan to replace it or save and reuse it will determine how much care you give on the removal. Once the toe rail is removed, it is a simple job to drill or pound out the remains of the rivets. Re-assembly should be done with 5200 as a sealant and 10 x 24 or 32 SS machine screws. It takes two people, one inside the boat to hold and tighten the bolts and the other on the outside to hold the screws. The screws should be flat head (either phillips, square heads or slotted) and counter sunk slightly. I used phillips each time I have done this. Use clamps to hold the deck and hull together while installing the screws, start at one end and work your way along. Once the hull,deck joint is bolted back together, re-install the teak toe rail. I would use 5200 as a bedding compound for the toe rail, but don't expect to take it off again in one piece. In my personal opinion, any boat of this vintage should be re-fitted bow-to-stern on both starboard and port sides. You wonder where those leaks are in your boat - this is a very likely culprit. Once you have completed this project, you will be comforted in knowing that your boat is now stronger that ever. Estimate time - 1 day.

    ----- Original Message -----
    From: John Birch
    Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 1:42 AM
    To: Alberg 30 public list
    Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Help- Tin Canning Bow

    So the sheer clamp has failed - that explains your oil canning - there was no top plate (formed by the deck connection) to prevent it. Has the hull delaminated as well or are the glass layers solidly bound to each other in the vertical plain?

    John
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: RReitz6289 at aol.com 
      To: Public-list at alberg30.org 
      Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 8:18 PM
      Subject: [Alberg30] Help- Tin Canning Bow


      While placing my Friend " Dances With Waves " #457, on the hard for the winter. The yard master discovered, and I conformed, that the forward part of the port bow is seperating from the deck. The toe rail is about 1/2 to 3/4 inches above the deck. The area had been filled with caulk which is now drying and falling out. I can oil can the top section of the hull about 1/4 inch, for a distance of from 6 inches aft of the bow for a distance of about 30 to 36 inches. To eliminate the possibility of water entering between the toe rail and the hull, and possibly freezing over the winter, I have covered the area with plastic and duct tape
      My thoughts are that I will have to remove the toe rail, scrape away all caulking, press the hull against the inner hull and fasten it to the deck in some manner, probably screwing, then covering the area with fibreglas and epoxy, finishing the job by reseating the toe rail.

      Has anyone had a similar problem? How did they  ahndle it ? What does the group feel about my solution? Can anyone think of problems I might encounter? I am wide open to suggestions.

      Thank you,
      Ralph Reitz
      Dances With Waves #457
      Sea Bright New Jersey 



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