[Alberg30] Cutless Bearing Removal

Mike Lehman sail_505 at hotmail.com
Mon Oct 28 06:42:17 PST 2002


The excess wear on the stern tube is caused by a mis-aligned engine. This 
will cause vibration and excess wear on the bearing also. In a worst case 
senario, this may even cause a leak between the tube and the hull. Lessons 
learned [the hard way] make sure your enigne is properly aligned [tolerance 
.004" max]



Mike Lehman
"Gilleleje" #505





----Original Message Follows----
From: "sousa, stephen (ENG)" <sousa_stephen at emc.com>
Reply-To: Alberg 30 public list <public-list at alberg30.org>
To: "'Alberg 30 public list'" <public-list at alberg30.org>
Subject: RE: [Alberg30] Cutless Bearing Removal
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 17:17:06 -0500

Some people suggest using a hacksaw making two cuts into the cutlass bearing
to remove a slice. This relieves the pressure and bearing can be removed. I
ran into the same issues on #114.

The shaft was worn at the packing area and the cutlass bearing, due to this
and a worn shaft tube. I decided to have H&H Propeller in Salem MA install a
new tube and cutlass bearing. The reasoning was that if the aperture that
holds the cutlass bearing was damaged it would definately exceed the cost of
materials and labor. I also removed the material that was used by Whitby and
applied 3M 4200 around the new shaft tube when installed. With the motor
removed now is the time to due it right, you are only saving pennies
considering the whole job.

Good Luck

Stephen

-----Original Message-----
From: Voyager Toronto [mailto:voyagertoronto at hotmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 27, 2002 8:43 AM
To: public-list at alberg30.org
Subject: [Alberg30] Cutless Bearing Removal


I'm replacing the cutless bearing as a first step to installing a yanmar
2GM20F. I've managed to remove the 8" bronze stern tube and the stern casing

into which it threads. I did this by removing the casing bolts and hammering

the bronze tube backwards to drive the whole assembly (tube and casing) from

the hull. The lower edge (diameter) of the forward face of the bronze tube
had been worn down to a knife edge by a misaligned shaft, and the hammering
has further deformed its forward end. My plan is to simply cut off the
deformed end, as the original 8" tube length appears to be unnecessary given

that the cutless bearing is only 3-1/2 inches long and is entirely housed in

the casing. I figure as long as I have enough length to clamp the stuffing
box hose onto, I'll be OK. Can anyone see errors in this reasoning, or any
ill effects from a shorter tube?

As a sidebar, the bearing is so firmly fixed in the casing (of course, I've
now unscrewed the bronze tube), it has resisted all home-grown efforts to
push or knock it out. Part of the problem is I don't know just how
aggressive I can be without damaging the casing. I hesitate to try cutting
it, as I don't want to cut into the bronze casing. Any ideas?



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