[Alberg30] Cutless Bearing Removal

sousa, stephen (ENG) sousa_stephen at emc.com
Tue Oct 29 06:46:47 PST 2002


Calvin,

I would recommend installing a new stern tube. Otherwise you will have one
difficult time clamping in the stuffing box hose.

-----Original Message-----
From: Voyager Toronto [mailto:voyagertoronto at hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2002 9:18 AM
To: public-list at alberg30.org
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Cutless Bearing Removal


Thanks to everyone for the great tips. This is a newly purchased first boat 
and yes, Brian & Elaine and Mike, I'm embarassed to say I did miss the two 
set screws on the heavily corroded casing, which I reexamined after your 
messages. Now I have the problem of drilling them out, as the slotted (not 
allen) screw heads turn out to be have been stripped. (I'm surprised--I 
would have thought putting the screws in wouldn't have required such force, 
unless a previous owner had tried like myself to remove them, gave up, and 
never did change the bearing, which might explain the heavily worn stern 
tube.)

About the stern tube length: mine projected a full five inches or so into 
the hull from the grey-white caulk used to hold it in, so I'm hoping I'll be

OK if I have to cut off an inch or so. At this point I don't have a choice, 
anyway. I'll cut off as little as is necessary and hope I can still 
accomodate four hose clamps.

By the way, the caulk is brittle, not flexible, and cracks away like dry 
putty. Maybe it's as old as the boat, some 38 years!

Calvin
Voyager #30

>From: "Mike Lehman" <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: Alberg 30 public list <public-list at alberg30.org>
>To: public-list at alberg30.org
>Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Cutless Bearing Removal
>Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 09:37:17 -0500
>
>What boat number are you? Also, there are two set screws on most of these 
>housings. They are usually SS allen screws. Make sure they are removed 
>before trying to remove the bearing. You may take a hacksaw blade and 
>carefully cut out a section of the bearing on the inside. This will make it

>easier to remove the remaining sections. Most of the time I use a socket 
>that is just a wee bit smaller in diameter that the bearing a drive the 
>bearing out. But then I get a certain pleasure out of using a large hammer.
>
>
>
>Mike Lehman
>"Gilleleje" #505
>
>
>
>
>
>----Original Message Follows----
>From: "Voyager Toronto" <voyagertoronto at hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: Alberg 30 public list <public-list at alberg30.org>
>To: public-list at alberg30.org
>Subject: [Alberg30] Cutless Bearing Removal
>Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 13:42:49 +0000
>
>I'm replacing the cutless bearing as a first step to installing a yanmar 
>2GM20F. I've managed to remove the 8" bronze stern tube and the stern 
>casing into which it threads. I did this by removing the casing bolts and 
>hammering the bronze tube backwards to drive the whole assembly (tube and 
>casing) from the hull. The lower edge (diameter) of the forward face of the

>bronze tube had been worn down to a knife edge by a misaligned shaft, and 
>the hammering has further deformed its forward end. My plan is to simply 
>cut off the deformed end, as the original 8" tube length appears to be 
>unnecessary given that the cutless bearing is only 3-1/2 inches long and is

>entirely housed in the casing. I figure as long as I have enough length to 
>clamp the stuffing box hose onto, I'll be OK. Can anyone see errors in this

>reasoning, or any ill effects from a shorter tube?
>
>As a sidebar, the bearing is so firmly fixed in the casing (of course, I've

>now unscrewed the bronze tube), it has resisted all home-grown efforts to 
>push or knock it out. Part of the problem is I don't know just how 
>aggressive I can be without damaging the casing. I hesitate to try cutting 
>it, as I don't want to cut into the bronze casing. Any ideas?
>
>
>
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