[Alberg30] Tiller connection

[R.C. Alley]

Bill: I would GUESS that the screws in my plate are .50 or ..70 inches long,
but I don't ever remember having them out.  My plate is only about .12
thick.  If the plate does not seat on the GRP, and rotate relatively freely
around the bronze shaft, you need to figure out why.  If it does, but the
screws no longer will bite, fill and redrill the holes in the
GRP(fiberglass).

I hope you can make it to the Fall Rendezvous--they're a blast. And you need
to look at some boats!!
Best,
R.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Blevins" <bblevins at fredericksburg.com>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 8:14 AM
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Tiller connection


> Thank you Rob.
>
> How long should those screws be in the metal circular plate? The 1/2 inch
> one that is in there now seems to be too short to actually screw into
> anything (other than through the hole in the circular metal part).
>
> --
> Tracy and Bill Blevins
> SABRINA, Dahlgren, VA
> Alberg 30 #158
> ##
>
>
> --
>
> On 9/10/02 10:43 PM, "R.C. Alley" <ralley at chesapeake.net> wrote:
>
> > Bill: You have an older boat; you may not really need a photo. Consider:
> >
> > 1. The rudderstock is bronze, with a keyway cut into either the front or
> > back at the very top where it protrudes from the cockpit floor.
> > 2. The tiller fitting, as originally supplied,  is two parts, both
aluminum.
> > The part that attaches directly to the rudderstock has a matching
keyway.
> > Wear can cause it to become loose with time, although it is more common
for
> > the other part (attached to the tiller) to become loose.
> > 3.  The fitting slides down over the top of the rudderstock.
> > 4. Matching up the keyways aligns the rudderstock and the tiller.
> > 5. The "key" should be bronze, about .25 inch square and .50 or .75 inch
> > long. The bolts simply hold stuff in place by friction. Do not
overtighten
> > them.
> > 6. The circular plate has no real function except to keep the
rudderstock
> > centered in the fiberglass tube through which it runs; there is no gland
or
> > other waterproof fitting--occasionally water can slosh up through the
tube
> > around the rudderstock, but it does no harm. If the circular plate is
> > turning on the rudderstock, just replace the three screws to hold it in
> > place. Note that the newer boats are different!!
> >
> > You will note that there is no real attachment of the rudderstock/rudder
to
> > the boat anywhere except the pintles/gudgeons and the shoe on the keel.
> > This means that maintenance  and replacement of these parts when
necessary
> > is critical.
> >
> > As to your tiller favoring 10 degrees to port, Steer to Starboard!!!!!!!
> > (and use some brass shims on the rudderstock head)
> > Rob.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bill Blevins" <bblevins at fredericksburg.com>
> > To: "Alberg 30 public list" <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 9:30 PM
> > Subject: [Alberg30] Tiller connection
> >
> >
> >> Are there any photos on the Web OR do any of you have a photo OR can
one
> > of
> >> you take a photo of the location where the tiller connects to the top
of
> > the
> >> rudder shaft in the floor of the cockpit area?
> >>
> >> I just noticed some wear down there in the brass pieces, but more
> > worrisome,
> >> are three screw holes in the circular metal plate that appear to have
two
> >> missing screws, then, the third rotates with the plate when I turn the
> >> tiller. It must not actually screw into anything or it's too short.
> >>
> >> What's up with that and what's the maintenance that should be done in
that
> >> area?
> >>
> >> There doesn't seem to be much play, but when sailing on either tack,
the
> >> tiller is probably favoring 10 degrees to port. Thoughts?
> >>
> >> Thanks so much in advance.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Tracy and Bill Blevins
> >> SABRINA, Dahlgren, VA
> >> Alberg 30 #158
> >> ##
> >>
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