[Alberg30] Anchor Well and Inner Forestay

[Roger L. Kingsland]

Albergers;

Has anyone tried adding a triangular shaped hatch to the bow deck above the ground tackle storage area (extreme pointy end)?  It is a pretty big area (I have had a tall, 16 yr old neighbor spending allot of time there removing what seems like hundreds of nuts holding stuff on the deck; I am thinking about renting the space to him on weekends for parties).  I am thinking it could hold an anchor as well as the ground tackle.  I have seen similar set ups on boats I have chartered.

Also, I am considering adding an inner forestay for my hank on working jib and #1 (both in good shape).  It might cost less than modifying the sails for roller feruling (my #2, is the only sail set up for feruling) and give me additional flexibility in changing headsails for wind conditions.  Since the roller feruling #2 is the "middle" sail, I could hank on the next sail in advance (up or down in size depending on wind trend) and change sails later without having to go to the foredeck. Of course, the #2 would have to be feruled on every tack/jibe.  My guess is the new forestay would have to run parallel the existing about 6"-10" aft.  Any thoughts on how feasible this would be?  Has anyone tried it?

Progress on the quasi restoration of Mahina Manu going well (only twice as ling as expected). Everything, except pulpits stanchions, and windows is off the deck.  What a job getting toe rail off.  Bent bolts, probably from a few dock assaults, almost impossible to get out. Me ant the strapping 16yr old spending over 1/2 on each bolt (about 130 total).  Ended up grinding on horz. plane thru side of teak and bolt shanks w/ 4-1/2 disk grinder just below bolt heads; then, prying teak up and pounding bolts down through hull. 

All teak, except toe rails, has been sanded and is ready for filler and teak oil after reinstall.  Hull to deck seam is in great shape; no delamination.  This boat (#148) had 3/16" SS bolts plus 6" OC plus alum. rivets in between.  I am thinking of replacing all w/ 1/4" SS rivets (actually stronger than the 3/16" bolts according to manufacturer) except where attaching new alum. toe rail which will be through bolted.  Does anyone know the feasibility of applying a layer of fiberglass cloth over SS rivets after they have been installed?  It would seem to be a good way to waterproof them. 

Working on detail for new inverted, "L" shaped, 3/8" thick, alum. toe rail w/ 1-1/2" wide horz. portion mounted on top of 1/2" thick deck plates (like big, rectangular spacer/washers) spaced about every 18" to 2'.  The inside face of 3/8"x1-1/2"  thick vert. edge would mount 1/4" out from hull and, A) screen the hull to deck joint and, B) act as a metal rub rail (ramming speed please).  Teak would mount on top and fasten to the alum. rail instead of through the hull.  Since the "L" rail will be 1/2" above the deck and extend 1/4" outside the hull, all fasteners will be visible for inspection and water will drain along the entire length of the boat.  I  will post a drawing of the detail if anyone is interested.

Feedback would be greatly appreciated.  Here in Pittsburgh there are not allot of old salts offering sage advice, unless you want to talk about houseboats.  All (probably too much) for now.

Roger Kingsland
Mahina Manu, A30 #148
 +---------------------------------------------------------------+
 |                This Old Boat by Don Casey                     |
 | http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0071579931/alberg30-20 |
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