[Alberg30] RE: Mast Step

[Scott Wallace]

Hello Ross,

I didn't realize you once owned a Rhodes Meridian!  My wife and I just
bought number 64, a 1962 Rhodes Meridian, WATERMARK, that once sailed Lake
Superior, Lake Michigan and The Upper Mississippi.  Now she is returning
(hopefully soon!) from FLorida to Lake Erie...

We also have the wooden mast, which has a "pencil line" of dark that looks
like a possible delamination line from the mast head down about four feet
below, above the spreaders...I would appreciate any help off line, if you
would be willing to give us any of your tips or experience!

Thanks,

Scott and Nan Wallace, WATERMARK

"Horton, Ross G." wrote:

> Randy:
> When I bought my boat, the aluminum mast step was broken at two of the
> bolt holes and the metal was so "rotten" that my machine shop could not
> weld it.  I made a stainless mast step out of two pieces of 1/8 inch
> stainless plate and the raised aluminum shoe from the original mast
> step.  The bottom stainless plate was cut diagonally at each corner with
> the sides bent upward at about 45 degrees.  All four raised edges of the
> bottom plate were punched with half inch holes to permit the attachment
> of blocks, fastening of halyards and topping lift and addition of a
> vang.  The flat bottom portion of this bottom plate and the second plat
> were the same size as the original mast step and were drilled for the
> bolts that go into the plate set in the deck.  The two stainless plates
> were welded together and the aluminum shoe which was cut from the
> original mast step was bedded in 5200 and then bolted to the stainless
> plates in the original position.  I have not had any problem with
> corrosion, but it has only been about three years.  Before I bolted the
> mast step to the boat, I gave the aluminum plate set in the deck and the
> aluminum shoe a liberal coating of Never-seize.  So far it has worked
> well.  If I had to do it again, I would bend the front of the bottom
> piece that faces the bow at a steeper angle because on my boat it
> prevents the forward hatch from being raised to the vertical.  The next
> time I drop the mast I will do so.  You could probably incorporate a
> hinge between the two plates, but the Alberg's mast is pretty heavy and
> unwieldy to lower that way.  I think a gin pole will probably be
> necessary to raise the angle of the lowering line as the mast approaches
> horizontal. It would also have to be very well guyed to prevent it
> canting to the side.  I used to lower the wooden mast on my Rhodes
> Meridian that way and it was sometimes way too exciting. Good luck.
>
> Ross Horton, #40
>
> Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 23:35:37 -0500
> From: Randy Weatherspoon <rlwspoon at earthlink.net>
> Subject: [Alberg30] Mast Step
> To: "'public-list at alberg30.org'" <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Message-ID: <01C32FA9.00FC0240.rlwspoon at earthlink.net>
>
> Next Problem -- Mast Step
> The aluminum has broken at the bolts on the top plate of the mast step
> and
> I was going to have a replacement made ---my machine shop is stressing
> SS
> but I am concerned about galvanic corrosion and weakening the mast
> --any
> thoughts -- is it really that bad?
> I was wanting to build the hinge like Yves and they could work SS easier
>
> Thanks for the help
> Randy #385
>
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