[Alberg30] RE: Mast Step
Larry Morris
larmor at myexcel.com
Fri Jun 13 12:15:43 PDT 2003
Ross,
This project sounds great and I would love to see pictures of your
installation. Is it possible to send digitals to George Dinwiddie to post
on the site for all to reference.
Fair Winds
Larry Morris
Solstice #501
-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org]On Behalf Of Horton, Ross G.
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 4:07 PM
To: public-list at alberg30.org
Subject: [Alberg30] RE: Mast Step
Randy:
When I bought my boat, the aluminum mast step was broken at two of the
bolt holes and the metal was so "rotten" that my machine shop could not
weld it. I made a stainless mast step out of two pieces of 1/8 inch
stainless plate and the raised aluminum shoe from the original mast
step. The bottom stainless plate was cut diagonally at each corner with
the sides bent upward at about 45 degrees. All four raised edges of the
bottom plate were punched with half inch holes to permit the attachment
of blocks, fastening of halyards and topping lift and addition of a
vang. The flat bottom portion of this bottom plate and the second plat
were the same size as the original mast step and were drilled for the
bolts that go into the plate set in the deck. The two stainless plates
were welded together and the aluminum shoe which was cut from the
original mast step was bedded in 5200 and then bolted to the stainless
plates in the original position. I have not had any problem with
corrosion, but it has only been about three years. Before I bolted the
mast step to the boat, I gave the aluminum plate set in the deck and the
aluminum shoe a liberal coating of Never-seize. So far it has worked
well. If I had to do it again, I would bend the front of the bottom
piece that faces the bow at a steeper angle because on my boat it
prevents the forward hatch from being raised to the vertical. The next
time I drop the mast I will do so. You could probably incorporate a
hinge between the two plates, but the Alberg's mast is pretty heavy and
unwieldy to lower that way. I think a gin pole will probably be
necessary to raise the angle of the lowering line as the mast approaches
horizontal. It would also have to be very well guyed to prevent it
canting to the side. I used to lower the wooden mast on my Rhodes
Meridian that way and it was sometimes way too exciting. Good luck.
Ross Horton, #40
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 23:35:37 -0500
From: Randy Weatherspoon <rlwspoon at earthlink.net>
Subject: [Alberg30] Mast Step
To: "'public-list at alberg30.org'" <public-list at alberg30.org>
Message-ID: <01C32FA9.00FC0240.rlwspoon at earthlink.net>
Next Problem -- Mast Step
The aluminum has broken at the bolts on the top plate of the mast step
and
I was going to have a replacement made ---my machine shop is stressing
SS
but I am concerned about galvanic corrosion and weakening the mast
--any
thoughts -- is it really that bad?
I was wanting to build the hinge like Yves and they could work SS easier
Thanks for the help
Randy #385
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