[Alberg30] backing plate

[Rick Leach]

Jay,

To fill the irregularities between the plate and the underside of the deck I would recommend thickened epoxy.  After verifying placement and alignment I would cover the plates and some fasteners (machine screws) with a mold release agent, such as poly-vinyl alcohol (PVA) or a paste wax.  Then butter up the plates with epoxy thickened to a non-flowing consistency and push them up into place.  Insert the machine screws and snug them up LIGHTLY & EVENLY.  The idea is to push out just enough putty out to insure that you have the void completely and evenly filled.  Carefully wipe the excess from around the edges with an acetone-dampened rag pulled snug over the end of your finger to leave a nice fillet.  After the epoxy kicks unscrew the fasteners and pop the plates off.  What you should be left with is a flat, true pad that perfectly matches the backing plate.

You could do basically the same thing with polyester resin and finely chopped glass, Epoxy is more expensive (but you won't need much), but it's bonding ability and strength is far superior.  Besides, it's great to have a little around for any number of purposes.

To find what you'll need you can go here: http://www.westmarine.com/ and search for these items:
Resin  # 323733,
Fast Hardener # 318360 (9-12 minute pot life) or Slow Hardener # 318386 (20-25 minute pot life),
Metering Pumps # 3405669,
High Density Filler # 382861,
Mold Release Wax # 103798,
You may also want some mixing sticks # 318287 (tongue depressors with one square cut end).  You'll also need some paper cups and some disposable gloves.  Acetone would also be handy. 

I would also remind you of the toxicity of uncured epoxy and the dust of cured epoxy.  Always wear gloves, avoid getting it on you, and wear a respirator if when sanding.  I'd be happy to elaborate on any points if you decide to go this route.

Rick Leach
S/V Sugar Magnolia
Monterey, California

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