[Alberg30] Correction

quest433 quest433 at msn.com
Mon Oct 27 15:55:50 PST 2003


Mike's right about not wanting to use the water tank...it's guaranteed to permeate odor because it's made out of the wrong materials.   My understanding is it needs to be made from polyethylene.  

Now I want to state my problem for your inputs:
    I can't get rid the smell and I got a polyethylene tank.   The consensus of everyone who's sailed with us this summer is that it's disgusting.  I know now that I've got the wrong hose and will replace it this winter when the smells manageable. But I also believe that there is a second source emanating the dreadful aroma.  For whatever reason the tank has 3 or 4 plugged holes (nominally 1" white nylon pipe fittings with teflon tape, or maybe pvc or a white something--these are in one of the vertical sides and are often have liquid bearing against them).  The tank also has a screwed-in man hole with the white o-ring and a clear acrylic cover or something like that.  In looking at the new tanks that I've seen all fittings are welded in these days.  But I also noticed at the boat show that they sell level indicators for holding tanks that screw into the standard man hole.   And the Kragor catalogs shows tanks with man holes as standard.  I'd like to order a new tank with no man holes and only welded in fittings and use the best hose...is this right track?   Or do I just replace the hose and hope that enough?

Jim Mennucci     
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Mike Lehman 
  To: Alberg 30 public list 
  Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2003 9:55 AM
  Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Correction


  I would never use a permanent tank for waste. What if the tank became permeated with odor? How would you change it? As a rule I never have waste in the tank while the boat is not in use. When the boat is put away after the weekend, I pump the tank, fill it with a fresh clean water rinse, and then pump the rinse water. Mine has no odor after 6 years of use. I also make sure to flush the lines with fresh water to prevent waste from permeating the hoses. 

  A couple of lesson here....

  Buy the best hoses you can. The double-wall rubber sanitation hose (about $10 per foot) is the best. Use PVC elbows where you have to, but keep connections to an absolute minimum. Do not use ALL PVC because of failure due to freezing (I replace the fresh water lines to my pier every year because they crack longitudinally even though they were drained). Avoid having an "low spots" in the hose installation where waste can lay. 

  The odor from the tank does NOT come from the waste! It comes from anaerobic bacteria in the system. A well ventilated tank will create an aerobic environment that will prevent the bacteria  from growing (another good reason to keep the tank emptied). Use two vents, one to each side of the boat to promote free-flow of air through the tank.

  Done and maintained properly a holding tank will provide years of odor-free service.
    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Roger L. Kingsland 
    To: Alberg30 
    Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2003 3:14 PM
    Subject: [Alberg30] Correction


    RE message below sent a few minutes ago, please substitute effluent for
    affluent.  Or, just change to read as follows:

    Lastly, imagine a 35 gallon holding tank!  I could chauffer the affluent and
    their effluent around
    the Chesapeake Bay all season, stopping only for the occasional Perrier
    delivery (they do deliver, don't they?).

    Sorry about the mix up.  I would like to blame it on spell check

    Roger

    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: "Roger L. Kingsland" <rkingsland101 at ksba.com>
    To: "Alberg 30 public list" <public-list at alberg30.org>
    Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2003 1:51 PM
    Subject: Re: [Alberg30] More on Tanks


    > I think the pipe problem could be solved by hard plumbing with rigid PVC
    > pipe.  There is enough slope below bunk level to get positive drainage and
    > the inside of the pipe is smooth (besides, I have a neighbor who is a
    > plumber).  That begs the question, why isn't hard plumbing used more?  Any
    > thoughts, any one?
    >
    > Assuming that problem can be solved, then the question is what is the
    > difference between a water tank and holding tank and would it be possible
    to
    > convert.  For example, would a pressure test (if so, how much, how long)
    > help determine adaptability of a tank?
    >
    > Lastly, imagine a 35 gallon holding tank!  I could chauffer affluent
    around
    > the Chesapeake Bay all season, stopping only for the occasional Perrier
    > delivery (they do deliver, don't they?).
    >
    > Roger Kingsland
    >
    >
    > Roger L. Kingsland, AIA
    > Managing Partner
    > Kingsland Scott Bauer Associates (KSBA)
    > N40° 27' 49"  W79° 57' 59"
    > 3441 Butler Street
    > Pittsburgh, PA 15201
    > www.ksba.com
    >
    > 1(412) 252-1500 X101 - Office & Voice Mail
    > 1(412) 779-5101 - Mobile (no voice mail)
    > 1(412) 252-1510 - Fax
    >
    >
    > ----- Original Message ----- 
    > From: "Gordon LACO" <mainstay at csolve.net>
    > To: "Alberg 30 public list" <public-list at alberg30.org>
    > Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2003 12:50 PM
    > Subject: Re: [Alberg30] More on Tanks
    >
    >
    > > I agree... hoses are often the source of bad smells in otherwise well
    done
    > > installations.  I also agree with the earlier writer about inflatable
    > > tanks... the consequences of trouble are too great to make it a good
    risk
    > to
    > > my mind; the plug I gave to Vetus tanks notwithstanding.
    > >
    > > Gord
    > > #426 Surprise
    > >
    > >
    > > on 10/22/03 12:34 PM, Hiesener, Michael at hiesenerm at stripes.osd.mil
    > wrote:
    > >
    > > > Roger,
    > > >
    > > > I do not believe you would want to convert a water tank to a waste
    > holding
    > > > tank.  A water tank is not designed to be used as a holding tank.  You
    > will
    > > > want to purchase a new tank.
    > > >
    > > > The area under the port side v berth works well... the drawback is
    that
    > you
    > > > lose that area for storage.   One of the problems of using the area
    > where
    > > > the forward water tank currently resides is that you would end up with
    a
    > > > long hose run from the head to the holding tank...You do not want
    waste
    > > > sitting in the hose.  Using the area under the port v berth allows you
    > to
    > > > have a short run of hose from the head to the tank.
    > > >
    > > > We recently did this on a early model boat without a liner.  Feel free
    > to
    > > > contact me with any questions.
    > > >
    > > > Best Regards,
    > > >
    > > > Mike
    > > > Terrapin #254
    > > >
    > > >
    > > > -----Original Message-----
    > > > From: Roger L. Kingsland [mailto:rkingsland101 at ksba.com]
    > > > Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2003 12:19 PM
    > > > To: Alberg30
    > > > Subject: [Alberg30] More on Tanks
    > > >
    > > >
    > > > Thanks to all for feedback on flex tanks.  Sounds too risky
    particularly
    > > > when dealing with holding tanks.  Which gets me to the next question.
    > Any
    > > > thoughts on the feasibility of converting the forward water tank to a
    > > > holding tank?
    > > >
    > > >
    > > > Roger L. Kingsland, AIA
    > > > Managing Partner
    > > > Kingsland Scott Bauer Associates (KSBA)
    > > > N40° 27' 49"  W79° 57' 59"
    > > > 3441 Butler Street
    > > > Pittsburgh, PA 15201
    > > > www.ksba.com
    > > >
    > > > 1(412) 252-1500 X101 - Office & Voice Mail
    > > > 1(412) 779-5101 - Mobile (no voice mail)
    > > > 1(412) 252-1510 - Fax
    > > >
    > > > +---------------------------------------------------------------+
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