[Public-list] Stuffing Box Issue

Bill Ydel bydel at bellsouth.net
Mon May 24 05:59:47 PDT 2004


How difficult is it to change the stuffing box with the boat in the water??
Do you get to it over the engine or did you all cut a access panel through
the locker.
Bill
SallyB #441 

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Mike Lehman
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2004 8:20 AM
To: public-list at alberg30.org
Subject: RE: [Public-list] Stuffing Box Issue

Hey CB,

I have friend that the stuffing boxes on his Bertram 28 engines (3600 RPM)
get so hot your can fry an egg on them. It always worries me, but he doesn't
seem to care. Instead when I repacked my stuffing box (about 8 years ago), I
used the space age stuff that converts the stuffing box from a water
lubricated bearing to and teflon space-age goop bearing. No more drip and it
runs cool.The stuff is expensive, but in my opinion worth the price. I
bought it a West Marine. It should not be confused with ordinary teflon
packing which tends to run hot all of the time. Changing to this stuff also
reduces the friction on the shaft. In power boats they claim to get an extra
200-300 RPM when they use this stuff. Here is the link:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=1
0001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=32179



Mike Lehman
"Gilleleje" #505

~~~_/)_/) ~_/) ~~





----Original Message Follows----
From: "C.B. Currier" <cbcurrier at spinrx.com>
Reply-To: cbcurrier at spinrx.com,Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
<public-list at alberg30.org>
To: public-list at alberg30.org
Subject: [Public-list] Stuffing Box Issue
Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 06:53:46 -0400 (EDT)

OK this may be a bit long winded due to the details but if you must reply
please read the whole message firest as I may have addressed your solution
already.


I have just aligned my Atomic 4 and the propshaft is spinning nicely.
I had the chance to see that the stuffing box was doing a steady stream
instead of a drip so I tightened the stuffing nut. This did not work. So I
concluded I needed to repack the stuffing box.

I purchased flax from the local guys at Fawcetts and was informed that along
with the new type of synthetic flax I would also need some type of teflon
grease. I can go off on this tangent later but I purchased a tube of
superlube teflon type grease.

Having cleared the  old flax out and placing new flax well greased in 3
rings inside the stuffing nut I tightened the nut. Success all leaking
stopped. I then backed off to the point that a very slow drip came out at
idle. Then I powered up the motor and shifted into gear to adjust for a drip
under power.

All of this seemed to work nicely.

However, I started to notice that the stuffing box was getting hot.
Not burning hot but warm. This concerns me as I dont want to have something
go while motoring.

Finally my question:
I am considering getting the really expensive teflon lube sold at Fawcetts
to replace the superlube but wanted to see if any one had any other advice
on adjusting this.

I have loosened the nut so as to have a steady stream of water flow but
still the nut gets hot/warm. A friend suggested that if the 6 second rule
can be applied then don't worry.

I have done a little googling and found contrasting opinions on the
temperature of the stuffing box. One opinion suggests it is ok to let it get
warm another suggests it is not.

I understand that burrs and scoring can cause resistance that will generate
the heat I am experiencing but the shaft appears quite smooth at the
location of the propnut.

Any suggestions most appreciated.


--
C.B. Currier
Infinity #57
Daybreak #458
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