[Public-list] Redoing Teak in Hatches and Seat Tops (PICS)
Elaine and Brian Timmins
timmins at optonline.net
Mon Dec 12 15:21:14 PST 2005
John,
Nice work. The boards and sliding hatch look good.
When / If you send long links, copy the link, open:
http://www.makeashorterlink.com/ and paste the link in the box. It makes
your link more user friendly.
Regards & Season's Greetings,
Brian ex#497
----- Original Message -----
From: "JOHN GRAVES" <jg1111 at msn.com>
To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Public-list] Redoing Teak in Hatches and Seat Tops (PICS)
> Here are pictures of my new companionway sliding hatch and drop boards.
> They are made of solid burmese teak, very old slow growth natural teak.
> The boards are joined by internal splines of the same teak with the grain
> running perpendicular to the grain of the boards they are joining. It is
> very, very heavy and very strong. I will weigh it when I get a chance.
> I hope you are able to access these pictures. I have been trying to figure
> out how to send pics to a list like this. If it does not work then any
> tips would be apreceated. Click on the link below.
>
> http://www.snapfish.com/share/p=644111134342355044/l=70634062/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB<http://www.snapfish.com/share/p=644111134342355044/l=70634062/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB>
>
>
> John
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Peter Staehling<mailto:staehpj1 at yahoo.com>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 11:45 AM
> Subject: Re: [Public-list] Redoing Teak in Hatches and Seat Tops
>
>
> I would love to see some pictures.
>
> --- JOHN GRAVES <jg1111 at msn.com<mailto:jg1111 at msn.com>> wrote:
>
> > Creating dir /root/tmp
> > Can't create /root/tmp, let's try /tmp/
> > Roger,
> >
> > I just got finished rebuilding the main hatch
> > cover and hatch boards
> > in my boat. It is made of solid burmese teak.
> > They came out great and
> > should last 100 years. I took some pictures
> > and if you would like I
> > will get them to you. I am in Brazil right now
> > but should be back home
> > next week. I can post them then.
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> ______________________________________________________________
> >
> > From: Gordon Laco
> <mainstay at csolve.net<mailto:mainstay at csolve.net>>
> > Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List --
> > open to all
> > <public-list at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org>>
> > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > <public-list at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org>>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-list] Redoing Teak in
> > Hatches and Seat Tops
> > Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2005 11:08:06 -0500
> > >Hello Roger -
> > >
> > >I would suggest that creating places to
> > stack gear on deck is
> > generally to
> > >be avoided. Similarly, you will generally
> > avoid going up and down
> > the deck
> > >on the leeward side while under weigh unless
> > there is something
> > down there
> > >that needs particular attention (genny track
> > adjustments etc)
> > >
> > >On the windward side having the rails
> > inboard is a good thing as
> > it widens
> > >your stance when moving forward and aft.
> > We have not found the
> > handrail in
> > >its normal position to be uncomfortable
> > to sit on. I have on
> > occasion
> > >considered adding rails on the forward
> > (lower) section of the
> > coach roof but
> > >I guess since you can hang onto the shrouds
> > up there we have not
> > done it.
> > >
> > >Our main source of crew security are the
> > jacklines that run up
> > each side of
> > >deck. Aboard Surprise they go from the life
> > line stanchion base
> > abreast the
> > >main sheet winches up through the cleats on
> > the foredeck and back
> > down the
> > >other side. We use red 1/2" dacron
> > braided rope with the core
> > stripped out.
> > >Nothing else in the rig is red and nothing
> > else is flat; so the
> > potential
> > >for mistakes clipping on are minimized. I
> > used wire on my last
> > boat but
> > >wire rolls under foot and we wanted to
> > eliminate that hazard.
> > >
> > >Well - there is a rambling response...
> > >
> > >Gord #426 Surprise
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > Gord & Pete,
> > > >
> > > > I got some great Burmese teak from Steve
> > at 401 253 3620 (an
> > importer in
> > > > Jew Jersey). I paid about $14 per board
> > foot. I believe it
> > came in 8/4
> > > > thickness and I had it cut and planed
> > down to mostly 5/8. I
> > learned the hard
> > > > way there is allot of junk out there.
> > His stuff is the real
> > deal.
> > > >
> > > > I used some of it to replace the Plexiglas
> > tops in the forward
> > and lazarette
> > > > hatches (using original teak frames). Some
> > day I would like to
> > laminate
> > > > teak strips on the plywood main hatch
> > and build a teak cover
> > into which the
> > > > hatch slides when open (I know that thing
> > has a name).
> > > >
> > > > In the "related but not relevant"
> > department, one thought is to
> > integrate
> > > > fore/aft grab rails onto outboard sides of
> > the cover that would
> > extend
> > > > forward past the cover and slope
> > down to the lower cabin
> > top. This would
> > > > form the sides of a "tray" to stow stuff
> > (sail bags normally
> > stowed in
> > > > forward cabin while under way).
> > Eliminating the original grab
> > rail, which
> > > > runs at about the middle of the space
> > between the hatch and
> > outboard edge of
> > > > the cabin, would make the cabin top a
> > better seat and eliminate
> > that lower
> > > > mid thigh welt. I don't know if it
> > would help or hurt the
> > ergonomics of
> > > > using the grab rails while healed over.
> > It would probably be
> > better to have
> > > > the leeward rails more inboard but
> > harder to reach if
> > transiting the
> > > > windward deck.
> > > >
> > > > Roger
> > > >
> > _______________________________________________
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>
>
>
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